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Other kitcar chat / Re: Fibreglass and things
« Last post by Furrari on Today at 12:14:10 PM »
So it’s on to plan C (or is it D or E) for the calipurr.

First job was to make some paper pemplates of the shape of the CF I would need.  This turned out to be pointless as once the resin is on you can’t get a big bit of CF in the space you have.
(Edited).  I forgot to say, before you cut the carbon fibre you need to give it a coat of spray adhesive that’s designed to use with CF.  This stops it fraying. ( well, more or less).

I gave the latex mould three thin coats of yellow gel coat (clear with a 10% pigment) and it’s very YELLOW.  The instructions I’ve seen say .5mm thick.  That’s easy on a large flat surface but not inside a mould 80mm side at is widest and 80mm deep.  I just did it until the latex was covered.

When the gel was at stage B (tacky but doesn’t come off on your finger) I put on the first coat of resin ( Clear but with a drop of black pigment so I could see where I had got to.). Again when this reached stage B it started to put the CF on.  At this stage I realised that I couldn’t get the templates bits on so I just cut it up.  The thickness was gradually built up.  I was aiming at 3 layers of 220 gsm.  We’ll have to see how that goes.  Finally left everything to cure. 

Checked it a couple of hours later and it it was still very soft.  The problem is one of temperature.  Should be 2-3 hours at 20 C with 18 C minimum,  the temp in the composite shop ( the back of the garage ) is nothing like that so I’ve brought it into the house to cure.  At 18C it could take 24 hours to cure.

More later.
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Other kitcar chat / Re: Fibreglass and things
« Last post by Furrari on February 18, 2019, 05:47:52 PM »
Demoulded the casting.  Looked good but close inspection showed it’s far from perfect.  Most of is excellent but at one end there are a couple of places it’s very thin and in one area it ripped.  It’s now back in the mould to fully cure.  The problem is that the moulds have to realign within one millimetre over a distance of 400mm and it’s latex and soft silicone rubber.  I’m not going to give up on it yet.  Tomorrow I’m going to see if I can put a layer of PU and FG mat on the inside where it’s thin.  As the latex mould has survived I’ll also try FG on the inside of that, maybe with a coat of gel coat on first.

I can’t think how to align the moulds better as any packer I use will show on the surface but I suppose a PU packer might work.

Oh well put it down to experience and learn by the mistakes.  No pics as it looks just like the original did except it’s black.
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Other kitcar chat / Re: Fibreglass and things
« Last post by Furrari on February 18, 2019, 11:30:52 AM »
Silicon in and poured.  Mother moulds layer up.  Upper and lower sections separated.  Packers placed on the not required flat bits. Mould release put on.  All bolted back together.

Now comes the bit I’m most concerned about.  It’s quite a big job to cast.  I’ve had problems in the past due to the PU resin setting too quick so I’ve got some slow setting PU.  This takes 7 to 8 minutes to set. 

whish me luck.
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West Coast chat / Re: Furrari build
« Last post by Furrari on February 14, 2019, 12:41:22 PM »
Not been on this thread for some time but it is related to the original build.

The Furrari failed its MOT due to headlight missalignment.  The headlight beam was way out of where it should have been ( LH side only).  Investigation showed that one of the lugs that hold the bulb in place had broken off allowing the bulb to twist.  Only solution was a new projector unit.  Ordered a new Hella unit from Car Builders Solutions.  Fitted it and went for adjustment and retest.  Failed again.  This time because the beam patten kicked up the wrong way, as though it was for a LD drive car.  No, CBS's catalogue said it was for a RH drive car.
I phoned CBS, no, Hella listed this as RHD.  CBS contacted Hella and got back to me within half an hour.
When The Furrari was built, Hella made two units, a LD and a RH drive one. DNA of course fitted a pair of RH drive ones.  In the subsequent years the design has been changed so there is only one style, and it’s a universal one.  They all come out of Hungary set to LH drive but all it needs is a tweek on the (hidden) adjustment screw to convert it to RD drive.
So if you get new Hella units for your car, look at the back of the unit.  Below where the high beam wires go into the housing is another plug.  Pull it our, turn the screw clockwise, put the plug back.  Job done.  Easy when you know how.  To do the job, less than a minute.  To find how to do the job, about a week.  Hey, that’s kit cars.
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2fifty Chat / Re: Z3 , Stalks changed to vintage
« Last post by Graham2 on February 14, 2019, 11:35:05 AM »
I bought my kit secondhand and there were no stalks in it so I was unsure what the score was.   Thanks for the information Sir P on your steering wheel, which looks perfect for size and style.   Firefife you amused me as I am exactly the same, I have a Triumph Stag for high days and holidays and adapt quickly to indicators on the right but going back to the daily driver turns are completed accompanied with wipers !!   Thanks for the replies, they're much appreciated.  Graham2
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2fifty Chat / Re: Z3 , Stalks changed to vintage
« Last post by firefife on February 14, 2019, 10:13:56 AM »
Graham2, I used the DNA stalks but found them too long so trimmed an inch off. Much better.
My Dino I put the headlights, etc. on the right as they were in those days - wish I hadn't. Changing from one car to the other was a pain thinking which way to use. Funnily enough, I was more mixed up getting into my ordinary car during the show season.
I also have cruise control but left the original there tucked underneath it doesn't really show, but I did cover the end knob so it doesn't show the writing. Had to modify the lower steering column cowl which I tidied up this winter, quite pleased with the present result
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2fifty Chat / Re: Z3 , Stalks changed to vintage
« Last post by Sir Percival on February 13, 2019, 07:11:01 PM »
You got the stalks if you bought the entire interior package. Unmodified means no change to length and indicators remain on the left,

Steering wheel is a; Nardi Classic 390mm (5061.39.3000) which requires a special boss and adapter plate to fit.
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Build Threads / Re: New 360 build
« Last post by Darren on February 13, 2019, 05:00:34 PM »
very pretty, are you sure you'll want to drive it on the road when finished  ;D
D
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Build Threads / Re: New 360 build
« Last post by 360MKbuild on February 13, 2019, 01:55:46 PM »
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Build Threads / Re: New 360 build
« Last post by 360MKbuild on February 13, 2019, 01:54:23 PM »
Washer bottle tested on my car and all good so the bracket was sent over for powdercoating. Then worked on stripping down the rear handbrake calipers so they could be painted. All the bolts and springs are going to be dipped. Also the handbrake brackets were fitted to the car. Lots of checking and testing to make sure all components fit and everything looks good. The new fully adjustable front end has also been fitted. Amazing bit of kit and this now means there are no spacers fitted to the car 8) just waiting for the 6 pot calipers to come back from being painted. When I bought them they were in an anodised red finish but as Lee and Barry said look like a sammon colour ::) when back the braided lines can be ordered. The exhaust set up is now being worked on before being dropped off for ceramic coating later next week.
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