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Messages - Furrari

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1
Other kitcar chat / Re: Fibreglass and things
« on: Today at 05:47:52 PM »
Demoulded the casting.  Looked good but close inspection showed it’s far from perfect.  Most of is excellent but at one end there are a couple of places it’s very thin and in one area it ripped.  It’s now back in the mould to fully cure.  The problem is that the moulds have to realign within one millimetre over a distance of 400mm and it’s latex and soft silicone rubber.  I’m not going to give up on it yet.  Tomorrow I’m going to see if I can put a layer of PU and FG mat on the inside where it’s thin.  As the latex mould has survived I’ll also try FG on the inside of that, maybe with a coat of gel coat on first.

I can’t think how to align the moulds better as any packer I use will show on the surface but I suppose a PU packer might work.

Oh well put it down to experience and learn by the mistakes.  No pics as it looks just like the original did except it’s black.

2
Other kitcar chat / Re: Fibreglass and things
« on: Today at 11:30:52 AM »
Silicon in and poured.  Mother moulds layer up.  Upper and lower sections separated.  Packers placed on the not required flat bits. Mould release put on.  All bolted back together.

Now comes the bit I’m most concerned about.  It’s quite a big job to cast.  I’ve had problems in the past due to the PU resin setting too quick so I’ve got some slow setting PU.  This takes 7 to 8 minutes to set. 

whish me luck.

3
West Coast chat / Re: Furrari build
« on: February 14, 2019, 12:41:22 PM »
Not been on this thread for some time but it is related to the original build.

The Furrari failed its MOT due to headlight missalignment.  The headlight beam was way out of where it should have been ( LH side only).  Investigation showed that one of the lugs that hold the bulb in place had broken off allowing the bulb to twist.  Only solution was a new projector unit.  Ordered a new Hella unit from Car Builders Solutions.  Fitted it and went for adjustment and retest.  Failed again.  This time because the beam patten kicked up the wrong way, as though it was for a LD drive car.  No, CBS's catalogue said it was for a RH drive car.
I phoned CBS, no, Hella listed this as RHD.  CBS contacted Hella and got back to me within half an hour.
When The Furrari was built, Hella made two units, a LD and a RH drive one. DNA of course fitted a pair of RH drive ones.  In the subsequent years the design has been changed so there is only one style, and it’s a universal one.  They all come out of Hungary set to LH drive but all it needs is a tweek on the (hidden) adjustment screw to convert it to RD drive.
So if you get new Hella units for your car, look at the back of the unit.  Below where the high beam wires go into the housing is another plug.  Pull it our, turn the screw clockwise, put the plug back.  Job done.  Easy when you know how.  To do the job, less than a minute.  To find how to do the job, about a week.  Hey, that’s kit cars.

4
General Chitchat / Spanners
« on: February 05, 2019, 03:27:07 PM »
I’ve just helped a mate change his battery.  He did bring his one and only spanner with him   1/8” Whitworth.  He is more used to working in an office.

5
5cudo Chat / Re: 430 Scuderia Door handle
« on: January 18, 2019, 09:20:34 AM »
If you have an original I can make a new one, if it’s just the outer handle.  A bit easier to do than the calipurrs I am trying to do ( see under Fibreglass and stuff)

M

6
Other kitcar chat / Re: Fibreglass and things
« on: January 17, 2019, 03:10:54 PM »
Silicone ordered.

I have a couple of old silicone moulds I don’t need anymore.  While you can’t recycle silicone rubber back to its constitutant material I read somewhere ( almost certainly YouTube) that you can mince it up and use it as a filler.  As this part of the casting won’t be seen on the finished job if the surface finish is not 100% it won’t matter.  I don’t have a mincer in the garage so I borrowed Management's food blender from the kitchen.  Well it does chop up (most) of the silicone to a small crumb size but what a mess it makes trying to get the finer parts of afterwards.  What I should have done was wait until the weekend when she’s out at a cat show. 
Anyway I now have about 1/2 a Kg of silicone crumb to save on material.  On with the show.

Thanks for the links Darren, I’ve watched all Smooth-On videos before but all the vids seem to cover the easy stuff and not bother with the hard, unusual jobs.

7
Other kitcar chat / Re: Fibreglass and things
« on: January 16, 2019, 11:24:04 AM »
Further investigation of the problem with, what I’m calling the Mk1 mould, seems to be a mechanical lock.  Although I set the pouring gate and risers accurately at the latex stage it looks as though they’ve moved during the fibreglass stage so I won’t be using this method again.

So what am I going to do? 
I think I’ll use silicone pouring resin instead.  Much more expensive but in light of the previous failure it stands a greater chance of success.
First job is calculate how much resin I need.  Simple job, just measure the size of the pattern (the main part of the calipurr) allowing about 10mm thickness over the whole area. The SG of silicon rubber is about 1.1.  If it’s not enough the cure time will allow me to mix more but you need to allow for it when you estimate if you’ve got enough.  No FG will be required as a top, foam board being enough but you still need a pouring gate and risers.  I’m going to make these bigger (diameter) than before and out of something flexible. (Hose or nylon 11 or12).  This won’t stick to the silicon so they can be removed easily once the silicone has set so there won’t ( I hope) any problems with mechanical lock.

More after the Mk2 cast.

(Edited).   This works out at about 3.5 litres.  That’s a lot at about £18.00 a litre.

M

8
Build Threads / Re: New 360 build
« on: January 16, 2019, 04:27:16 AM »
Lee.  Nice idea to paint the water bottle black.  They always go yellow and painting it black hides this and also adds conformity to that area.

I was going to add about not being able to see how much water is in it, but then I remembered that on the SL based cars the only way you can see the bottle is take the front wing off.

9
Other kitcar chat / Re: Fibreglass and things
« on: January 15, 2019, 03:48:44 PM »
Demoulding.  A partial success.  The mother mould and the latex mould for the face side have come off a treat.  100%.  The inside, not so good.  In fact a total disaster.  I couldn’t separate the moulds from the patern.  I’m not sure if was a mechanical lock or some other fault, but either way I’ve had to cut it off to save the pattern.
The next version/attempt will be using a part silicon mould.  This stays flexible even when cured but is very much expensive, but thankfully a lot quicker.  I’m also going to print the pouring and rising gates with a taper to reduce the chance or severity of a lock.

No pics 'cos they’re a bit boring.

10
Other kitcar chat / Re: Fibreglass and things
« on: January 15, 2019, 12:09:48 PM »
Nigel.

Hi there.  Will do.  I’ve posted all stages of this project so everybody can see the success and failure of my learning curve.  I hope to separate all the parts of the mould later today or tomorrow.  Here’s hoping for a a success, but either way I’ll post the results.

M

11
Other kitcar chat / Re: Fibreglass and things
« on: January 12, 2019, 11:26:55 AM »
Finished the latexing last night so it’s the mould release layer today.  Interestingly I used latex from a different manufacturer on this face.  Only needed eight layers to build up to the same thickness as 20 odd layers on the first side.  It only needed less than 1/3 of a bottle as opposed to most of a bottle.  Can only assume there were more solids in the second.

(Added a bit later).  I must say the job looks a lot better in the last pic than it does with 8 coats of latex and a layer of mucky mould release.  Still it’s the final job that matters ( and I sure hope that looks good, I have a lot of time invested in it.)

12
Other kitcar chat / Re: Fibreglass and things
« on: January 08, 2019, 03:15:03 PM »
The outer face of the latex mould and the pattern and the corresponding mother mould released from the baseboard.  The pouring gate and risers glued onto the the internal face.  Two coats of brushable mould release brushed on and two coats of sprayable mould release sprayed on to the surface and the pouring and rising gates.  Everywhere that even looked as it it might trap air got a rising gate.

Start latexing this side of the mould tomorrow.

I’m sure there is an easier way of doing this but my lack of experience is a problem.

Just a pic of the job with all the gates and release stuff on.

13
Other kitcar chat / Re: Fibreglass and things
« on: January 07, 2019, 03:57:42 PM »
Fibreglass Mother mould ( the support for the latex mould) made.  Mixture of carbon fibre, woven FG, and CSM. ( why CF?  It’s just off cuts from other jobs and are too small to use on proper jobs). No pics 'cos it looks the same apart from three legs made from old paintbrushes.

Do you know why milking stools have three legs and not four?

It’s 'cos the cows got the udder.

And with that I’ll post the separation picture tomorrow.

14
Other kitcar chat / 250GT Cal
« on: January 07, 2019, 11:41:37 AM »
Just found a thing on Google.  One of the two remaining Ferris 250 GT California’s sold in the middle of last year for $407,000 so we’ve a way to go yet.

15
Other kitcar chat / Re: Fibreglass and things
« on: January 06, 2019, 07:37:49 PM »
Second coat on, won’t need a third.  So it’s fibreglass tomorrow.

Just a tip.  If you are applying a second coat of something like mould release and it’s difficult to see there you’ve already put some on a bit of pigment in the mix helps.

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