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Messages - Sir Percival

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1
2fifty Chat / Re: Rear Lenses (Thanks Sir Percival)
« on: June 26, 2023, 03:27:40 PM »
Russell, good to see you too.

I would like to buy a pair of rear lenses and a front grill please...should I go through you, or just order off the grassbank site?

Thanks
Perce

2
2fifty Chat / Re: Replacement boot handle
« on: May 09, 2022, 07:47:23 PM »
The boot handle looks great....glad I could help  :D

3
Test and Play / Re: RIP Mick Coomer AKA furrari
« on: April 25, 2021, 09:51:52 AM »
I thought Mick had been very quiet lately, so sorry to hear he has passed away.

He loved that YELLOW car...sleep well Mick.

Percy

4
Build Threads / Re: Sir Percivals 2Fifty Cal build thread
« on: April 02, 2021, 07:14:42 PM »
I have just bought two rear brake/side light LED bulbs from Classic LED's.

They are a direct swap for the old bulbs and draw far less power, so place less strain on the wiring.

You have to buy red ones, not clear, for the full effect, and they are brilliant in all senses of the word. At 7 quid each they are well worth it, as my old brake lights were pretty dismal on a sunny day.

Great for helping to stop the old lady in a Fiat 500 running into your back end ;D

5
Sales and Wants / 250 Cal boot handles
« on: November 27, 2020, 06:48:27 PM »
After paying out £355 for a "real" boot handle I now have two DNA 3d printed ones that I no longer require. One has been hydro chromed, has a dummy lock fitted, and was fitted to my car. It is used but pretty good nick.

The other is a 3d printed handle with no lock that requires final finishing and chroming. (I bought it as a spare, never used)

Bear in mind that I paid £60 for the blank one alone, and about £100 for the one off my car (if you take into account the cost of the dummy lock and the chroming)

Sensible offers welcome. Photo's for anyone interested.

6
4thirty Chat / Re: Bonnet Badge
« on: August 04, 2020, 11:57:53 AM »
For stuck on badges (stuck on with anything other than Tiger seal type stuff) you should find that dental floss is great.

Hook it under the badge and use a gentle sawing action, and it should cut through the double sided tape/glue with no bother.

I have used it to remove stuck on trims and it works great, if it breaks just pull out another bit and carry on....cheap as chips.

It will probably leave a residue but that can be cleaned off with any type of sticky stuff remover...I used white spirit or meths.

7
Build Threads / Re: Russell's 2fifty build
« on: January 05, 2020, 12:57:58 PM »
Hi Argy,  my rear lights are also MGB  , but with  the lower part supplied by DNA. You need early B lamp and the lower part was 3D printed
I think the company that  did it for DNA was 3D print shop Ltd,  try them on 01179390631 or 07811355327. I think his name is  Mark Bryant. Good luck with it. Regards Mechman.

This is very useful....A smashed back light has to be a worry when you don't know where to get a new lens cover...I will "file" this in case a Granny attacks the rear of my car in a Fiat 500  ;)

8
Build Threads / Re: Russell's 2fifty build
« on: January 05, 2020, 12:52:27 PM »
Hi Mechman,

Thanks for your comments but they've arrived a bit too late. Fortunately I have a working solution to the door opening issue. I've trawled other people's build diaries and with a bit of help from Grassbank Conversions I've got a good working solution.

The photo shows an earlier version of what I've done. Since then I've replaced the cable with something which is a bit more flexible and I've used aluminium ferrules from my local rope and cable merchants to crimp the cables rather than using the electrical crimp. The original cable was too rigid. Getting the balance between the desired action and applying tension when at rest was a challenge.

The original solution shown here works well except that the door locks won't open if there is any tension whatsoever on the door release mechanism. The problem only shows itself when you lock the doors with the central locking then try to open the doors again.

I bought 5m of 'soft' 1.0mm cable from ebay for a couple of quid (plenty left over if anyone needs some). This allowed me to have a tiny amount of slack before the door release mechanism moves and so avoids the lockout issue.

My kit didn't come with the oval shaped pieces which attach to the door release mechanism so I had to make my own. In the process I modded mine to allow me to loop the cable over an M6 bolt which is prevented from slipping off again with a penny washer and an M6 nyloc nut. This approach allows me to be able to easily remove the door handle if required.

What do your rear lights look like? I've got the MGB lights and am searching for a better solution similar to what the others got with their kits...

Russell

Smart job on the door latch Argy, very similar to how I did mine.

Using the builders angle bracket helped by giving the extra leverage, and they have worked great from when I fitted them.

Mine not as smart as yours though, nice one.

9
Build Threads / Re: Sir Percivals 2Fifty Cal build thread
« on: December 30, 2019, 02:31:53 PM »
Can't help with the rubber on the front of the scuttle trim, as I used the original given to me by DNA. (which is U profile but the bottom is flat and the top has a curve)

For the rear of the trim (that rests on, or near, the windscreen) I used some soft 5mm (or 7mm) U channel black rubber, that I got off the web...ebay I think!

10
Build Threads / Re: Sir Percivals 2Fifty Cal build thread
« on: December 29, 2019, 02:13:27 PM »
I have finally got rid of ALL the hydro-chrome on my 250.

All the external shiny bits are now either chrome metal or mirror stainless (with the minor exception of the stick on chrome flashings) so I no longer have to worry about them going tatty.

I also now have a fully functioning boot handle and lock, it was not easy to get right and required some fabrication, but now works a treat and looks great.

 ;D

By the way, quick tip that I expect many of you are aware of already, when removing stuck on (with 3M) chrome strips....dental floss is brilliant. Just slide it behind the edge of the strip to be removed and then use a sawing action. It cuts through the sponge backing in no time just leaving the sponge remnants and the glue to be cleaned off using a suitable solvent....doddle!

11
Meets and Events / Re: Newark Kit Car Festival 25th/26th July
« on: November 30, 2019, 11:24:09 AM »
Sorry....that reply was for Stoneleigh....not Newark!!

12
Meets and Events / Re: Newark Kit Car Festival 25th/26th July
« on: November 30, 2019, 11:22:31 AM »
We will be moving house round about then so I doubt we will make it again this year  :(

13
General Sales and Wanted / Re: 2fifty metalwork needed please
« on: October 17, 2019, 08:30:11 PM »
Thanks Steve

14
General Sales and Wanted / Re: 2fifty metalwork needed please
« on: October 17, 2019, 06:43:46 PM »
Madman will probably know which one....he is a font of knowledge

15
General Sales and Wanted / Re: 2fifty metalwork needed please
« on: October 16, 2019, 07:48:45 PM »
I think you will find that the wiper motor/clamp/tubes and wheelboxes is a standard buy, as a kit, from Car Builder Solutions (CBS)

I have a boot lock with keys (as shown in the picture) still in the packet from DNA, that I didn't use...not sure how much it's worth (its probably from CBS as well so you could probably find the price of it on there)

I also have a hydro chromed replica 3d printed boot handle with fitted fake lock... and a 3d printed boot handle with no lock (the latter I bought as a spare before I forked out for a "real" one (a whopping £355 by the way!!)....both for sale....however please bear in mind that, should you wish to make an offer, for the bare 3d print alone I paid Brian £60...the lock in the chrome one cost me £25, plus chroming on top...so my (not very subtle) point is that this stuff ain't cheap!

I don't want to make money on anything...just somewhere near to what I paid for them.

Count Arthur Strong once sagely said about the programme "Wheeler Dealers" ;

"Its a telly programme where they buy cars, spend a fortune doing them up, and then celebrate selling them for slightly less than they paid for them in the first place"

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