DNA Owners Club
DNA Owners => Build Threads => Topic started by: Steve4321 on July 07, 2016, 09:34:24 PM
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Hi All,
Picked up my 14 year old donor, and had a 400 mile round trip today to DNA and have my 4thirty kit on order.
Thrilled, and started the donor strip this evening.
Sorry to start immediately with a 'HELP'........
I'm hoping someone might have the guidance PDF. I've seen this referred to in the forum and unfortunately DNA don't have the PDF anymore. Does anyone have this available?
Would forum boredom set in if I published my record of the build as it moves forward? I realise the 430 has been done many many times now and very well by others already.
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Steve,
Just emailed you a Build Manual* and Hood Fitting Instructions. Hope they help.
DNA Automotive USA
* See email
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-NvO8240i8
just follow the instructions.........
D
the whole list is here
https://www.youtube.com/user/carlover6/videos
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Thanks Barry, thanks D,
Good stuff.
Very grateful for your time.
Having a go at adding an image:
My donor;
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/Freddie_zpsthq0a8u0.jpeg)
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Hi, please do document your build here - after all, that's why I've moved your post to the Build Threads section!
Congratulations on starting the build and, as you've already found out - you'll get lots of help on here.
- tenpin
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Thanks very much Tenpin.
I'll enjoy the process, and I will be very grateful for guidance from others.
Steve.
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It also helps to indicate where you're located. A dna owner would then be able to become your personal consultant ;D
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Thanks D, I like that.
I'm in Plymouth.
I know Beany is in the west country and I've seen his car, it's quite something.
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Hi Steve and welcome. Your don't need the pdf. You just need to follow the bible. :D
http://www.dnaoc.co.uk/index.php/topic,3496.0.html
Nice to see another 430 build. Any problems please shout.
Paulie ;D
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Thanks Paul. I've already enjoyed browsing your build thread. A fantastic trail to follow :-). I plan to catalogue my hours as you did. Your progress / timeline made really interesting reading.
Just 3 hours stripping the car so far. Work is getting in the way - am off to the Farnborough Airshow today until Tuesday.
The 430; what a beautiful shape. My build just had to be that model.
Meeting Brian and the guys at DNA was great. Very down to earth.
Steve.
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Not on the Red Arrows are you?
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Great choice, decided on colour etc yet?
MADMAN 8)
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Welcome to the club. Great choice of car and enjoy the build. Its the best part.
feel free to ask any questions as we are all here to help one another.
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Thanks to all for the supportive messages. Much appreciated.
Managed to squeeze in an hour on the car before travelling to work at Farnborough. Unfortunately nothing exciting there for me, we have a trade stand, so spending the next few days suited and in meetings - yawn.
The build, at the moment. I'm thinking Siverstone Grey. I've seen pics of F430s in that colour, and they do look really good with a red interior.
After 4 hours:
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/Rear%20Strip%20a_zps5z22mnuu.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/Front%20strip%20a_zpsze0cmn3p.jpg)
The front shock gaiters have had it. I think I saw the same on Paul79's thread. Guess they're a weak spot. Nice to see the wheel studs had copper grease on. The general condition underneath looks very good for a 14 year old 33,000 mile car.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/FR%20Suspension%20leg%20a_zpsdjcgpkzx.jpg)
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Oh it's always down to colour with you..! ;D
Ten to one, he goes WHITE...! Lol lol ;D
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good colour.....
Real one:
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/dangerrous/ferrari%20silverstone%20grey_zpsdyanjbfa.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/dangerrous/media/ferrari%20silverstone%20grey_zpsdyanjbfa.jpg.html)
Howsers DNA:
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/dangerrous/Howsers_zpseyypeo7j.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/dangerrous/media/Howsers_zpseyypeo7j.jpg.html)
Nice looking cars
D
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Congrats on going for a build Steve, it's the guaranteed way to get exactly the car you want.
You have my number and know where I am if you have any q's.
Good luck with the build.
Chris.
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Thanks very much Chris.
I hope to follow in the footsteps of yourself and others I've seen on this site.
It's going to be an interesting journey!
Steve.
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Although I do fancy Silverstone Grey, I still think Rosso Red can't be beaten.
The wheels I've chosen will allow me to go either way :-). Decide later.
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Howza,s car always looked Great, it,s another good colour choice.
I think thats my Red one next to it.
MADMAN 8)
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Let's not forget Steven's Grey with red interior. That was the build thread that led me to building mine.😉
Chris.
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RED RED RED I mean white!!
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I have to say, I do like white, but the grey looks great, and Beany's yellow looked dramatic, but then can you do better than traditional Rosso............................ they all look great.............black chassis on the donor..................... decide colours later :-).
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Home from a business trip last night and able to put time into the strip down.
I realise what I post will be old news to most on here, and my apologies for that. I'm enjoying the journey.
6.5 hours of graft today, and loved it. Total time now 10.5 hours.
Most of the cutting/grinding done today, just need to sort the inner skin top-line of the doors for the DNA door cards. Need to file back and straighten cuts, and treat all cut edges.
Doors stripped and mirrors removed. Cut mark-out started. Nervs starting to show - getting closer to firing up the angle grinder!
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/WP_20160713_001_zps2bhnqfsv.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/WP_20160713_005_zpsoqpveqtg.jpg)
Rear wings and arch liners off.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/WP_20160713_002_zps8ezjyybd.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/WP_20160713_004_zpsrimeuh7f.jpg)
Exhaust cowl off.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/WP_20160713_003_zpstylkszkf.jpg)
Doors trimmed. Thanks Paul, without the guidance of your thread, I would probably have cut too deep and into the inner skin.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/WP_20160713_007_zpssbdmaxse.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/WP_20160713_010_zpsbplbipkv.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/WP_20160713_011_zps6gj1hr70.jpg)
More trimming. Need to control the grinder better!
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/WP_20160713_008_zpsxba7kopz.jpg)
Rear bumper bar cut.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/WP_20160713_009_zpsx9lxl3rh.jpg)
Seam folds bent over.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/WP_20160713_012_zpsbxzudimp.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/WP_20160713_013_zpslvfdh8bh.jpg)
Freddie, [I know it's sickly], doesn't look like this anymore. Only had the car 8 days. Current value now stripped, around eight Bob!
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/Freddie_zpsthq0a8u0.jpeg)
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The roadmap so far:
Inspiration:- Meeting Beany and seeing his car.
- 3 telephone conversations with Brian at DNA.
- Moved by support from DNAOC members, and Dangerous/Madman/Paul79/Beany in particular.
- Visit to DNA 6 days ago - ordered my kit.
Thoughts:- I've learnt a lot in not too many days, but realised I know less than I thought.
- So far, I haven't created a workplan. Seems like a good idea so the way forward is more structured than it has been to date.
- Will consider and document a task plan, and an expenditure strategy............. then add 50% contingency to both.
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Those black leather seats look good from what I can see, get them on MR2 roadster oc £200 - £250 then buy a cheap cloth set from same place £25-£40 it all helps. all panels, lights, wheels etc on same forum, more cash back. as it,s a pre-facelift car, lights and bumpers not as valuable as facelift ones.
Keep up the good work a great start
MADMAN 8)
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Just don't tell them on the MR2 Roadsters OC what your doing..!
They go mental.... Believe me...! I've removed myself from there after I advertised some TF300 seats on there for Mario..!
I thought I was going to get strung up when I said we were stripping it to make a kit car...
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Funny isn't it, I joined zroadster.org when I decided to build a 2fifty. I said I had bits to flog because I was doing a "project" ....of course they asked "what was the project?", so, a bit apprehensively, I told them.
They were all for it, want pictures, details and told me about other projects that people had used Z3's for, they are a great bunch, they love their cars but they are not so precious about them. I think to them if its got Z3 running gear they're interested, and don't seem at all bothered about body changes.
Oh, and I managed to flog my bits as a job lot to a guy on the forum....result ;D
Strange old world :)
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I had no problems selling my parts, even saying what I was doing. I once went to Hull to see Phils99 and we went to a meet of aprox 20 MR2s in my F430 spider rep. and had no bother at all.
MADMAN
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I'm not sure if it's because we stripped a TF300...
I think they get rather upset when another TF is taken off the road... Especially because it wasn't a Cat D.. It was straight.
Mario got banned off the site, as they said he was a garage/trader, and couldn't use the site for selling parts he had stripped off the car... Hence the reason I posted them instead...!
Very strange world, I must say ::)
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Thanks all.
I've joined the MR2OC. I plan to put my panels/lights/other on there later this week.
One Q; do I need to keep any parts from the lights at all - I'm not sure what I'll get from DNA?
Thanks Madman, the seats I've got are in really good condition. I'd already thought it would be a good idea to sell the ones I've got and buy some cheap cloth ones as they are going to be recovered anyway. A £100 gained here and there always helps.
On the money front, the quotes I'm getting online for a Mondeo fuel flap and housing is around £40 inc. P&P. Seems a lot, is that what I should expect?
On colour, [and this may well change over the coming months), I'm now thinking Silverstone Grey, cream leather and yellow calipers. Views?
I haven't yet ordered brakes from DNA. What are the thoughts on presentation? Which looks more convincing, the stainless discs or the pretend carbon ceramics?
Apologies for the question dump.......
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Steve
One mk1 filler housing on eBay, on gumtree mk1 being broken so worth contacting them. I paid £20 but had to remove it myself for the price. Make sure you get the release Spring as its easier to fit. I bought the mk1 cabling that operates it as well.
The stainless discs are 18", fibreglass ones are 19" and look great, but take a look at madmans brakes :o amazing
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Thanks Mark.
Yeah, Madman told me he has a full Ferrari set fitted to one of his cars. I'm sure it looks pretty special.
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Re lights. I'll tell u list to keep tomorrow
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Thanks very much Paul. That would be a great help.
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Great progress Steve. Looking good. This is bringing back lots of fond memories for me!
So on to business... from memory
Keep the rear number plate lights. You’ll need to sink these into the rear of the 430 kit when you get it. You'll need to extend the wires but you might as well use the factory connectors. Leave the other wires with connectors stuck to the rear bumper bar as they are in your pictures. Everything else you’ll get in the kit. 4 rear Ferrari lights, side indicators and front headlight set up. You can sell the mr2 rear lights, front lights, and side indicators
Also keep your front indicator bulbs and housing as these will lock into the DNA headlight housing you'll get with the kit. (Unless you’re crazy like me and decide to do the DRL switchback option)
Label up all your MR2 light connectors because by the time you come to do the wiring, you’ll forget what is what
Don’t forget to prime the bare metal cuts you have made in the body work to protect from rust
The mr2 air filter pipe I have arrowed in the picture below can come off as you won’t need that - you'll get a piece of pipe in your kit that you attach to the rear quarter pods to direct air into the engine. Maybe fit and induction kit now so that is sorted. You’ll want one of those.
Also the 2 pieces of metal I have arrowed in the second picture, you can cut off. They don't serve any purpose with the 430 kit on, and I found they just got in the way of the exhaust pipes when you come to fit it. I had to cut mine off with the kit bonded one, which was very hard to get access. Better to do now when the kit isn't on
As you’ve ordered your kit, I will take about 6 weeks to get it, but there plenty you can get one with beforehand such as:
• Stripping out the interior and packing away safely – including all carpets and plastics, they’ll only get in your way and get ruined when the car goes for painting
• Removing the wing mirror motors as you’ll need these for the 430 mirrors
• You could lay a wire from the battery to the rear so you can have a charging point with an Anderson clamp that you access from behind the rear number plate
• You could remove the alarm siren form the bottom of the frunk and relocate so you have more of a front boot.
• Relocate the washer bottle. I attached mine to the side of the frunk, some attach to the inside of the frunk, others move it to a similar position further forward, but I think it gets in the way when fitting up the front bumper, so better out of the way. You could also lay the pipes foe washer jets and also fit to the scuttle panel now. You’ll have to modify the scuttle panel at the sides and the front grill part(see my thread) but no harm is sorting the pipe work now so one less job for later
• Think about a tow eye solution. If you’re handy at welding to could get that all sorted now as the MR2 tow eye bolt location is too high and too far to the middle
• The MR2 radio aerial becomes defunct, so you could lay a new one up inside the A pillar
• Make a start on the banging in of the front arches.
• Replace you MR2 horns with better air horns
• Make some speaker wooden pods like I did to house better speakers
• If you’re going do the 430 dash, relocate the hazard switch as you can’t use it in the normal location
• Check for rust everywhere on the body and treat, prime and paint
A lot of this stuff I had to do once the car was painted and it was a lot harder as the kit is in the way
You talk about a work plan. I detailed mine in excel. Send me your email address and I’ll send you it, as it is sort of a time line of what bits is did and how long it took.
Yep definitely worth adding 50% to the expenditure strategy. But you can save tons of money getting the bits off eBay. I wanted all the nuts and bolts to be similar so I was forever ordering nuts and bolts from eBay. Much cheaper than B&Q. Just buy an absolute shed load in various sizes, M5, M6 and M8. Also order washers and penny washers as well as they come in really handy.
My donor cost £3250 and I managed to make over £1000 back on the parts I took off and sold. I see you have a twin rear exhaust silencer. They are quite sought after. I had the same and sold it far too cheap. Ask for at least £200 for it.
Care about the parts of the car that you can’t see as much as the ones you can. You’ll get much more satisfaction. Maybe paint the rear parts of the chassis (where you folded over the seams) a lovely satin black.
Check your MR2 brake discs and pads. If they are close to replacing, order some new ones and when your kit’s arrived and you take the originals off to do the DNA spacers, replace with new ones. I wish I had done that!
I hope this all helps
Paulie ;D
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Pics
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Hi Paul.
Thanks LOADs for your time and invaluable advice.
I will take notice of all you've said. I've picked up a lot from yours and Phil's threads (amongst others -thanks guys) including the need to remove the rear wing hangers and how you've added the induction kit (amongst many other items).
Having said the above, its great to have a list of tasks as you've provided. I'm a big fan of having a plan, and am a real Excel nerd. My web address is steveukwaters@gmail.com.
Haven't touched the car today, but should get a couple of hours tomorrow to finish the steel cutting and folding. I'll continue to bore all with details of my stumbling progress :-).
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Steve (4321).
I must disagree with you. No record of a persons build is boring. No two builds are the same. We learn from each other's success and failures in equal measures and congratulate and take the p*****s in equal measure. We've all been there. I have a large pile of stuff to show my failures, and I had mine built. Keep up the good work.
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Thanks F,
I've seen and enjoyed some of the banter in the threads. Suits my sense of humour!
I'm sure I'll find a way to make mistakes not seen in the forum before :-).
Just ordered my Mondeo fuel filler housing and flap from breakeryard.com. £25.20 including P&P and VAT. I have to say, these guys were slick. I would use them again when needed.
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Managed 3 hours on the car yesterday/this morning. Total time now 13.5 hours.
Trimmed the rear wing hangers and scored/hammered over the top seams on the inner door skins. Glad I can put the angle grinder away for the moment, found it quite stressful attacking the car with the cutting disc. Need to buy a sanding disc to soften and cut back all the ground panel edges.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3263_zpsgnd5j9fz.jpg)
Removed the washer reservoir for the moment.
Decided to tackle a job I've not been looking forward to; removing the pre-cat thingy. Removed the O2 sensors, but couldn't see any ceramic material inside the manifold. I took the manifold off as I wanted to check the gasket anyway. Looks like a previous owner has already removed the pre-cat. - yippee!
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3261_zpsuwzc14sv.jpg)
(http://)
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worth checking
MADMAN
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Help please.......
Do I need to remove and keep the bonnet and engine cover catch loops from the panels, or does the kit provide something that means I don't need these?
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3296_zps85e9mbif.jpg)
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Hi Bud no you don't need to keep them there is all ready one in the new bonnet and the rear deck has a different fixing :)
Mark
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Thanks very much Mark. That's great.
Steve.
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Having taken advice from Paul[79], I'm going to leave cutting these [circled] chassis extensions until I get the kit/arch liners. As Paul suggested, leaving some of the extension available will be handy to lay/attach cabling and to help secure the arch liners. I need to see the kit parts before I cut.
As an old carpenter friend of mine once said, "measure twice, cut once".
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/Wing%20hanger%20Front%20strip%20a_zpsupq2v9a3.jpg)
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4 hours on the car this week, total 17.5 hours, travelling for work has got in the way - badly. Next week will be no better, will be in Germany.
Real slow progress atm.
Have only managed a few hours on the build this week, and each time I've pulled the donor out of the garage, [cos of limited space], my lovely neighbours are all over me wanting to know what is going on? Most of them are fascinated by the bloke who took a perfectly lovely MR2 and instantly reduced it's apparent value to around £8. Others want to talk and are re-living youth spent trying to keep their Morris Marina or Mk3 Cortina on the road, and remember constantly having dirt under fingernails.
The 4 hours spent on the car have probably generated 60 minutes of worthwhile work.
Hand filed back all cut edges ready for priming and painting. Have stripped the lockers behind the seats and removed plastics. Loose mounted the roll bar mounting plate. Mounted the front clip plate and the headlamp brackets. Mounted the door lock brackets on the cut door tops. For me, Tek screws do not drill in on their own, I'm having to pilot drill everything.
I know this is old news to most of the guys on this forum, but I..... am...... loving it !
Took a call from Brian. He said would I accept a change to the wheel spec.? Instead of having 19"x8" rims all round, I had the option to have 19"x9" on the rear with an effective increase in overall diameter of 20mm. He reassured me the arches would take the size. Fantastic..... sign me up. Means a rear tyre of 255mm [I think].
Looking forward to when I get the rest of the kit !
Once again, thanks to all for the support this week. The people on this forum are something else.
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3.5 hours on the car today. Total 21 hours so far.
Primed and later painted all cut edges and bare metal. Washed, degreased and dried all metalwork in the frunk cavity that I figured was black when new, and now not so.
Front of car looking a little better, but needing more cleaning and painting.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3305_zps7eyec065.jpg)
Generally the car looks better now all the cut edges have been treated. Made me feel I was starting to head the right direction.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3308_zpsvwhg5qcy.jpg)
Front clip plate and headlamp brackets in place.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3306_zpshkzuqh0p.jpg)
Old and new horns. The new should wake up a few characters! Not sure if it's worth fitting them atm. Probably best to wait for the body so I know how they will fit.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3303_zpstn10piwo.jpg)
Yesterday's work with the rollbar carrier loosely mounted.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3307_zpslmcusazb.jpg)
Tomorrow morning, will have the rear shocks off to fit the new coil springs.
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God I miss those days. Great work steve :) Don't forget to extend the fuel pipes as a hell of a lot easier to do at this stage. I had to do it with the kit fitted and painted and was a pain to do.
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Thanks Mark.
Sorting the inlet pipe and breather is on the todo list. Not a job I'm looking forward to.
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3 hours on the car yesterday. Total 24 hours so far.
3 hours generating 30 minutes worthwhile progress :-(.
Attempting to knock off jobs I've never had to face before, thought I would replace the rear springs with the DNA ones I've got with the few mechanical parts Brian was able to give me.
Drop link joints !
The stub hex socket on the ball joint on the offside had already been damaged where someone had been 'at-it' and wouldn't hold an allen key at all. The nut on the top joint just would not release. Figured the link needed replacing so simply cut through the link bar and removed the shock - really didn't fancy putting the grinder on the Drop Link joint spigot in-situ. Will wait until I can get a nut splitter. Hopefully that will let me get the link off without damaging the plate on the shock or the roll-bar. Assume the nearside will be the same - buy new Drop Links.
New Drop Links and nut splitters now on order. At least the tool cupboard is being stocked :-).
Looking at the pic here, will make sure the coil spring is rotated to have the spring end against the formed stop on the shock - I assume that is how it should be.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20160724_180554-1_zps1iwlwz2j.jpg)
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Heavy day Friday. Pick up most of the kit from Redditch, see the family in Dartford, then back to Plymouth, 612 miles.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20160806_092921_zpsf9xwrdtd.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20160806_092915_zps9z8jsbqy.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20160806_092859_zpsbiw9ddiq.jpg)
Boy is there a lot of 'stuff'.
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Back to work on the car - life getting in the way.
Just 1.5 hours yesterday, total 25.5 hours so far.
Finished rebuilding rear suspension, under-sealing wheel arches, and fitting new Drop Links.
Offered up the Anderson Clamp, will fix on the bumper bar today, and test-lay cables.
Plan to do my first bit of work on body parts today ...... the door skins.
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Progress since picking up the body parts last Friday.....
Managed to get 21.5 hours on the build over the last few day, total now 47 hours. found door alignment and getting the rear clip to align with the doors very difficult. The doors and the rear clip took me a lot of time.
Cut the door handle holes. Really struggled with aligning the left hand one. The door skin seemed placed ok with contours matching the MR2 door, but the geometry was quite different to the right hand side.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3575_zpszrfpp7xy.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3578_zpsckctnv5j.jpg)
Fitted the doors.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3573_zpsisd8uyzf.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3570_zpsdn5mzv65.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3572_zpsmcjmociq.jpg)
Eventually got the rear clip on and offered up the front. Reasonably happy with the trimming done on the rear clip.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3586_zpssnb3pdoa.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3588_zpsem85gehs.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3589_zpsjghx72ti.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3590_zps4sk6vbds.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3585_zpshpidiplf.jpg)
Rain stopped play!
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3582_zpsr4rh3pnb.jpg)
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Don't make the gaps too tight buddy you will have at least eighth of a inch of paints etc to go on.
Also inside the original door may still stick out past the new skin but that can be trimmed back.if you put rear clip too close the inside could be very close to the b post and can rub.
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beat the front wheel arch back before fitting front clip, makes it a ton easier.
coming on well.
MADMAN 8)
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Thanks for the advice fellas, very grateful. I'm starting to realise how much I have to learn. Trouble is, when you start, you don't know what you don't know.
Wayne, when positioning the door, I gather then I should potentially allow an eighth of an inch [wow], of the MR2 door to stand proud of the DNA skin at the rear of the door? Hopefully I've understood correctly? Guess I'll need to re-position, very glad you mentioned that. At the moment I've set the MR2 door and the DNA skin flush at the rear.
Steve, yep, I've seen plenty of mention of beating back the dreaded arches. Thanks for the reminder. Unfortunately I haven't got the wheel spacers yet, but hopefully will see them in a couple of weeks. The guys at DNA have been good in giving me what they could so far. I have the bashing session to look forward to :'(. There's no way I would want to take that on with the plastics in place.
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sit tight Steve, I will email you...
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Steve. Not only do you not know what you don't know, but when you do you don't know how to do it. When you find the best way to do it its 'cos you've done it another way.
Does that make sense.?
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Hahaha. It does. Many times in my life, I've thought; "why did I do that?".
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Thanks to support from Paul79/Madman/Beemaman/Mark360 and a supportive call from Brian, hopefully I've re-set the doors and clips with adequate clearance.
Also, had to have a look at the wheels, love them.
I have to say, given the manufacturing tolerances inherent in fibreglass mouldings, the DNA kit is pretty damn good - IMHO.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3600_zpsxcsnuz8q.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3599_zpssvvusxo2.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3598_zps0zmgfde0.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3593_zpsrqopwvjh.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3592_zps49vyt1x6.jpg)
(http://vid1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/VID_20160812_132020_zpsvrtjf3f5.mp4)
Still some realignment of the front clip planned for tomorrow.
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Steve. I think those wheels are the same as mine. I had them in black metallic and then diamond cut. Because the spokes are proud if the rim edge you end up with just the spokes cut the entire wheel. Different to all others I've seen.
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Looking good buddy ile send you a message now :)
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Steve..you are flying along! looking great! hope all those videos helped. gaps looking a lot better now. i must say those wheels do really suit the car. i am tempted to change to those! ;D
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Hi Furrari, I've just tried to see your wheels but couldn't find a pic. I like the sound of them.
Mine are bog standard and are the wheel style shown on one of the West Coasts on the DNA website pics. The ones I've got are 19x8" and 19x9" rims. The spacers Brian is sending me had to be adjusted to suit the change in width. Brian called me a couple of weeks ago and kiindly offered the change in width :-). I agreed with him, obviously they need to fit, but wider wheels have got to be a good thing - lovely! I love the style, and the colour which [for me] looks like it will suit almost any body colour.
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Hi Paul. Yes, thanks for the vids. Very helpful. Grateful for your time - as always.
Wayne has also given me some further advice which I'll check out against the car.
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Hi Steve,
I have found some pictures of Mick wheels, cars looking great. Keep up the good work and looking forward to seeing you at Stoneleigh.
8) 8) John James
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Thanks John.
Now, I understand what Mick meant. The wheels look very special.
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That's okay Steve,
I am seeing Mick on 29 August at the Knebworth classic motor show. If he hasn't posted any pictures of the wheels I will take some, keep up the good work. :)
8) 8) John James
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Thanks JJ. My wife has some good pictures on her lap top but she's away for the weekend at a cat show, I'll post tomorrow.
The cat ( Saffire) was made up to Grand Premire today. Well done puss.
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Advice please?
I've broken away from massaging the door skins and rear/front clip positions until I get the wheel spacers and can do the suspension mods. Thought I could offer up the rear deck frame seeing as mounting that is all referenced to the rear clip and not so much the car. Managed to get the frame set at the desired 62mm from the rear of the rear clip, happy with that. The query I have is the alignment of the top surface of the engine cover deck with the top of the rear clip wing sections. The deck stands higher than the clip on both sides. I can't see anyway to align other than to start filing away. Is that correct?
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/LHS%20Deck_zpsrotxd66m.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/RHS%20Deck_zpslbwhncjv.jpg)
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The rear deck should be level with the both sides of rear clip.maybe a tad higher if can't get level but not really higher.you also need to make sure that when deck opens the rear part that swings in doesn't catch the rear part or clip were grille goes.check out my build for pics of how the deck sits on the car bonded into place.beemamans f430 build
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Thanks Wayne.
Will do.
ATM, all I can see is that I need to reduce the height of the deck to align those top surfaces by filing - not attractive. I'll have another look tomorrow in case I'm missing something.
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steve to me it looks like the rear clip should be coming back a touch - this could in theory means it drops down a little lower. i'll go an photo my car and send it to you
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Thanks for the pics Paul. They helped. As I said I think I can see that you've done what I plan to do, remove the section on the underside on the rear of the deck. That way the rear panel on the deck will remain fully intact, and the cut edges will be hidden on the underside. I've quickly and very roughly marked the area for me to cut away. The deck will then be able to drop in the clip cavity.
I'm very slowly learning what you guys no doubt see as obvious :D.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20160818_173126_zpsddirzzo4.jpg)
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I spoke to Chris Beany today. He kindly connected me with the new owner of his car - now in Dorset. Quite a bit closer to me than you northern guys :D
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Have got my wheel spacers as promised by Brian - thanks matey.
Simple question [please] to you guys; how much do the track rod ends need shortening? I seem to remember 10mm from somewhere but now can't find where I saw it - if I saw it?
Am in Germany on business until Friday, and hope to do the front suspension over the weekend. Unfortunately away again next week so hope to get he arches and suspension mods done before I go.
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Bit of a messy few weeks with little time to spend on the build. Great support from the forum where my lack of knowledge held me up. Managed a hour here and there, total time now 84 hours.
Some things moved forward a little recently, and following in the footsteps of others:
Suspension mods completed and new wheels on. Outstanding; I'm not happy with how much purchase I had to tighten the M12 bolts going through the back of the front hubs to hold the spacers. I'll drain down the brakes, clamp the hubs to the bench and re-do. I had to grind away the cranked spanner to get into the bolt heads. Found a simple way of getting the hub studs out in-situ that worked easily.
There is a minimum of 10mm-ish clearance around the front tyres now. I figure I need more to clear the arch liners when fitted later, so when I re-do the hubs, I'll have another bash - more skinned knuckles.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20160827_181839_zpsz17aln7k.jpg)
Sorted the fuel pipe and breather, and have left the pipes long so they can be cut to the right length when the rear clip is bonded on. I've yet to soften the chassis panel edge like Paul did with trim around the original air intake hole.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3661_zpshhxtowmz.jpg)
The rear deck frame is adjusted so the rear deck now sits low at the front end and the side extensions [or whatever they should be called] are sitting lower. At first I had some 20mm gap on each side - looked rotten. Some way off, but I'm looking forward to getting the rear deck on the frame - it is such a beautiful shape. Happy with how the deck is mounted. I can see what Paul was talking about in his thread about the gap between the deck frame fron end and the deck under the pod mounds. I'll find suitable solid packing when the time come to bond.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3664_zpsbgqxbzhn.jpg)
Love the wheels. The doors are screwed here, I think they are better now they are bonded after a little jiggling about on the adhesive - or maybe I'm just kidding myself.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3662_zpsvim2hnqg.jpg)
Have bonded on both doors. Did the passenger first and managed to stick the door to the dry fitted rear clip where the adhesive extruded out. Managed to do the same with the driver door the next day - some people don't learn. I got to the point where I decided the doors and the clips were aligned as best as I was going to get them.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3660_zpsycffgbmf.jpg)
I won't sell the MR2 wheels for the moment, they make great props for the panels when bonding.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3658_zpsbndnxycc.jpg)
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don't forget to earth bond the filler neck to the chassis
D
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Thanks for the reminder D. Appreciate you guys keeping an eye on me.
I've sanded away to bare metal so I can use a hose clip as Paul shows in his thread.
Have to admit, I didn't enjoy messing around with piping having open ends and petrol fumes just waiting for a spark - I am a bit of a Jessie!
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Again, grateful to Paul, Mark and D for the continued support. I'm needing all the help I can get.
Build-life would be a lot more stressful if I thought I was on my own.
A long way off, but looking forward to buying beers at Stoneleigh next year.
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Whoop whoop whoop......
Rear end bonded on last night. Checked this morning, seems to be ok, or at least - as good as I can get it.
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Great work Steve. Will be in the paint shop by xmas!!!
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That's the plan, but as you guys know better than me, lots to do.
Spoke to Wayne today, he was a great help in clarifying a few points for me.
Once again, grateful to all of you guys for helping me along.
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Coming along nicely Steve.
Are you gonna have Wayne paint it? You really cant go wrong if you do, his work is incredible.
Chris.
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Hi Chris,
As with the colour choice, final decision's yet to be made. However, it is very likely I'll ask Wayne if he can take it on for me. Means a 400 mile round trip to deliver the car, but, hey-ho, small potatoes in the grand scheme.
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Worth every mile to get it painted by the best
MADMAN 8)
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I agree Steve's. I'd have Wayne paint any car if I ever built another.
I wonder how he'd feel about painting a 40ft Catamaran, as I'll be more likely to build one of those in the future, lol.
Chris.
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I agree Steve's. I'd have Wayne paint any car if I ever built another.
I wonder how he'd feel about painting a 40ft Catamaran, as I'll be more likely to build one of those in the future, lol.
Chris.
That will make his arm ache, I used to spray our 34ft long by 13ft 6" high furniture vans and that was bad enough ;D
MADMAN 8)
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Yep, not only has Wayne got a great rep on here, he takes time to explain and guide those with no knowledge, [me]. Very much appreciated....!
A lot of money goes into one of these builds, I figure the body finish is the most important factor. Would be short-sighted to put the car into a bodyshop that lacks pedigree.
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Couldn't agree more
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Up to 107 hours spent on the build now.
Currently struggling with aligning the bonnet.
Will find time to post pics.
I seem to be accumulating a huge pile of half finished jobs where something goes a little wrong, or I have that single missing fastener.
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Hi bud wen i was building mine it felt the same way and thin it just all fits to gather :)
Mark
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Thanks Cheets, I've seen your build. Some very good ideas there.
I guess I'm following footsteps well-trodden by you guys.
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Well trodden, yes but each persons build is different. So we still need to know your approach to each facet of building your car.
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Just some stuff I've been doing recently.....
I haven't yet decided how I'm going to sort the release for the rear deck, I put the backup cables on the deck catches so I could plan bonding the deck and worry about the release cables later.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3679_zpskd1pvlw6.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3680_zpspo6nofqs.jpg)
Having bonded the front clip on last week, things had moved about a bit and both doors were catching on the vertical clip section at the front of the door. A little cutting back sorted that out, and the doors now clear. The gaps horrify me, but I've spent the last month peering at panel gaps on other cars, and the worst have been on Range Rovers! I hope mine will turn out ok after painting.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3674_zps61wgg8yg.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3672_zpsqneflcdz.jpg)
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As I don't have an exhaust for the car, I've been experimenting. My best bet at the mo is a 2.5" bore 15" long by 5" diameter repackable silencer borrowed off a friend. An 1800 straight 4 is never going to sound like a 4.3 litre V8, but at the moment, it sounds ok to me - the uneducated :).
The plan is to have a return on the 2.5", split into 2x 2" and go out the rear panel per Scudo. I know Beany did that, and I really like the look. Just need to work out the geometry, isolation, and mounting from the bumper bar to the rear panel so the tail pipes are located and tied in position................ lots to do, and plenty of trial and error. A local StStl exhaust fabricator said he wanted between £800 and £1200 to do the job. I fancy a go myself - famous last words?
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3681_zps6qa0loj6.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3682_zpscws8qrhu.jpg)
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Now the front clip is on, had a go at mounting the bonnet this weekend, and then again this evening, and will do more tomorrow evening..... it-ain't going-well....!
Really struggling to get the contours of the bonnet to align with the wings. They seem to be a completely different shape. Of course they aren't it must be just the way I've bonded and aligned the clip.
Things are improving now I've played with the height of the clip at the front, and I've added a tie-bolt on the near side wing to pull it down toward the chassis. The difference can be seen between the near side and the offside where on the offside the wing is still sitting much higher than the bonnet.
I've ordered more Renault bonnet stops, and will use then on brackets pinned to the wings to support and form the bonnet to the wing curves - I reckon.
Nearside improved.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3676_zpsferrtyxj.jpg)
Offisde with wing still high.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3677_zpszoexn2md.jpg)
Tie bolt pulling down to chassis. Spread washer needed.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3670_zpswf59xorf.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3669_zpszvumhrba.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3675_zpskgrbxyup.jpg)
I put the bumper on to make sure the weight at the front wouldn't change the geometry of the bonnet and clip.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3667_zps94ndfjgy.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_3665_zpsqtlnburi.jpg)
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You should have panel stops in the inner fitch to raise the bonnet level
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Good to see some photos Steve
I think it is coming on really well
Don't worry about the gaps bring large. They can always be made smaller at the rear of the doors
The gap at the front of the doors has to be that big I'm afraid. As time goes on you won't notice it especially when the car is done and painted
As Roland says you should have more bump stops to help with bonnet alignment and also u should have brackets to raise the wings up. I'll take some photos tonight for you and post tonight.
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Thanks fellas. I have the twisted plates to tie the clip to the inner MR2 wing, but want finer adjustment that I think I can get by using the drawbolt and adjustable stops. That would mean if ever I need to correct alignment if it changes over time, I'll have a way to do it by simply 'tweaking'. Of course, remains to be seen if it will work.
Will do more on it this weekend.
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One more..... isn't the ferrari shape a beautiful thing....!
I fell in love with the 360 when first released. I never thought I would have anything with those or similar lines in my garage.
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Doing well steve......... Keep it at it mate.... ;D
I know what you mean, I never thought I would ever own such a beautiful looking car in my life time.
They are just stunning.....
You have to take your hat off to the DNA guys who made this all possible for us.
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here you go Steve - bumps stops all circled yellow. and then the twist flitch brackets are arrowed in yellow and rivited to the inside of the wings shown with the green boxes.
yes - it is a beautiful shape indeed... ;D ;D ;D
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Thanks guys.
Yep, will be having another go at the bonnet this weekend when the extra Renault stops I've ordered have been delivered. Thanks Paul and Roland for the advice.
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My compliments to DNA.
Their after sales service is superb.
Spoke to Brian today. As always, very helpful, supportive and willing to go the 'extra-mile'.
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Another 3 hours over last night and today. Total 110 hours so far.
Preparing the rear deck for bonding. Have ground back all areas that were stopping the deck from sitting down at the front.
Was concerned about how I would key and prime the right areas on the underside of the deck. Was obvious when it dawned on me, and I'm sure has been the way others have done theirs. I clamped the deck to the deck frame so I could lift it and use masking tape to mark the areas where I wanted to prepare surfaces. I went overboard with the areas to cut back and prime in case I later want to pack and bond the bigger gaps between the frame and deck.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20160928_154638_zps9d3tbx5g.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20160928_155522_zpsm6zdfjjx.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20160928_155536_zpsoa4ltctp.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20160928_162900_zpsdailigai.jpg)
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So I can draw down and secure the front extensions on the deck, [what are they called?], I cut square section al.alloy extrusions and bonded onto the deck frame.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/unnamed%201_zpsdsejy4ru.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20160928_200541_zpsg68jewf4.jpg)
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Whoop whoop.....!
Thanks Lee.....!
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20160928_201155_zpsibjmv8gn.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20160928_201215%201_zpsvimxidhl.jpg)
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No problems steve ;D
Glad they turned up ok and in one piece
I bet it took you an age to get into them, I think I went a bit over board with the brown tape ::)
But at least they are no damaged...
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Hahaha. Yep, there was a fiver's worth of brown tape on the pack.
Will put the gauge faces on the clocks during a quiet few minutes this morning, they look brilliant.
Thanks again matey.
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That's more like it mate
Well done....
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Thanks Lee.
Struggled a little with that, and spent a lot of time on it.
Part way through fitting the bonnet, I really did wish I'd asked DNA to fit the body. Happy now, and ready for the new trial.... the exhaust and rear deck.
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Looking good bud :)
Cheets
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Thanks Lee.
Struggled a little with that, and spent a lot of time on it.
Part way through fitting the bonnet, I really did wish I'd asked DNA to fit the body. Happy now, and ready for the new trial.... the exhaust and rear deck.
it will be worth the effort when you are driving round in it knowing you built it yourself, credit to you m8
MADMAN 8)
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Thanks for the encouragement fellas. The support from all is greatly appreciated.
I've a bit of rework to do on setting the front clip - which I started last night. I'll post details later in the week when I'm a bit further forward. There's an issue that I don't think would have been visible in the built car, but it would have always bothered me if I left it, and I'm happy I can sort it out.
I've learnt a lesson.
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Keep up the good work, I'm sort of going through new ground and I'm 6 years late to the party. Any unscripted alterations would be good to know :D
D
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Hi D.
Your build looks incredible matey.
The issue I had was that where I hadn't got any CSK rivets I used what I had to hold the twist brackets to the front clip with a view to changing them later. I used regular dome head rivets. Minor issue anyone might say....
What this meant was that when I set the bonnet, I didn't realise it was binding on the rivet heads and not resting naturally. On tensioning the bonnet by adjusting the height of the bonnet catch and the Renault stops, I found the bonnet was a little lower on one side and when I added the scuttle, I found it wouldn't fit and needed cutting - which wouldn't be needed if the bonnet hadn't been catching on the rivets. None of this was helped by not having the scuttle in place when setting aligning the bonnet in the early stages.
Lesson learnt by a novice builder - always think ahead and assemble all pieces of the jigsaw before drilling, cutting or bonding. I've got another scuttle on order from Ebay.
Dome heads.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/unnamed-8_zpsvkwoqi3t.jpg)
Replaced with CSK rivets.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/unnamed-7_zps0piggy5n.jpg)
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Although my Furrari was built by DNA I used to do all my own work, both on cars and on a narrow boat.
I was advised, and worked to planning ten jobs ahead and get the bits on order to save delays at the build stage.
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Great advice, as long as you know what to actually plan for. I'm an automation engineer for perimeter security, in other words electric gates, barriers, blah blah.. every now and then we still have to go back to the workshop and do some sort of 'alteration' because every job is bespoke, not unlike building an even well established kit car. I'm stocked to the rafters with all sorts of things in my workshop, but I still end up going to screwfix at 7pm to get an imperial sized O ring for the air conditioning. Unless you actually build a car and log every item used and document every part of the build phase, it will trip you up for the next one. I take this as the problem part of the build and tick it off as a win when completed. The guys at DNA will build a car fast, just look at the India build. I know that when my kit car is finished I hope to have the feeling of 'I did that' and smile form ear to ear inside, just like a fair % of the DNA community.
Keep up the good work Steve, we're the last 430 builders (unless Steve, AKA Madman, has a kit stuffed in his garage rafters) I'm doing some exhaust tip alterations at the mo, so the kit is just sitting on the car until they're done.
D
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No sorry D plenty of things in my rafters, ie MK1 Cortina rear screen, MK1 fiesta door glass, Opal Manta GTE rear bumper, a couple of sunroofs etc. etc. but sadly no F430 kit,s. I had chance of three complete F430 kits from a guy in Birmingham but let them slip through my fingers.
Who knows what will turn up in the future, unfinished or possibly not started kits, I would be interested in any give me a shout.
Yours will not be too long before completion D, dont forget when you have done the roof give me a shout.
MADMAN 8)
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Thanks Darren.
Good points. All the planning in the world doesn't answer those issues arising from what you don't know and haven't yet experienced.
I count myself fortunate the guys on this team are so generous with their time and very gentle support. It means I can learn from others and sometimes see what I need to do without having past experience to build on.
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Steve. Re planning. That's why you get the bits in for next ten jobs to when you find you're short on bits for a job you can move onto the next while you get the bits in for the one you have just ground to a holt on. I've been stuck on a job for the sake of a grommet.
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Haha, thanks F.
I'm having exactly the same. Everything planned and provisioned, and the smallest and lowest cost component is missing. When this happens, I've resorted to using harsh language, it seems to make things easier...
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Managed to get the Fuel filler first fix sorted today.
First time I had used P40. Glad I masked everything in the filler housing before bonding. The stuff goes everywhere - I'm sure you all know.
GRP is all a bit whiskery, but I gather can be cut back when cured.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161013_171450_zps1oueksav.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161013_171543_zpsujvavo7j.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161013_171553_zpsosqsoygm.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161013_171604_zpsitlh0xr9.jpg)
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Has anyone come up with good ideas on how to firm-up the mounting horns [or whatever they are called] for the door mirrors?
They flex a lot, and I imagine when at speed or hitting bumps, the mirrors would bounce around.
I've not noticed anything on build threads where these have been beefed up.....?
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161013_172155_zpsjglkaept.jpg)
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Before anyone mentions it, and thanks for the past reminder from Madman, yep, I'll add an earthing strap to the steel filler body.
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I never had any undue mirror vibrations on my 430, and we have more than a few potholes around here.
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support the door along the top edge, should help, maybe
This was a video produced for another member some years back, may help
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ud3dd3yHx0k
D
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Thanks very much D.
I've also looked through some of your other vids as well. All very helpful references.
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Decided I didn't like relying on the GRP door as the mounting structure for the mirrors. Nearside now modified with 2 off straps [thanks Roland for sending me this direction]. Took me a while, but now I will be able to take the mirror of by undoing the M10 nut on the embedded studding. I thought I might have to put a second M6 studding piece in the second mirror cavity still leaving space for wiring, but the fix seems to be with just a single mounting.
The first strap holds from the glass guide mounting, and the second is bonded to the top of the door..... it would have been riveted if I'd thought of this before I bonded the door on; once again, hindsight - crystal clear.
Its rough ATM, but needs cleaning up, squaring off, a M10 half-nut, and CSK M6 for the door glass guide mount so everything will be clear of the window, and I'll then have a recess to fit a trim plate into the inside of the mirror mount.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161013_172155_zpsjglkaept.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161017_093833_zpsjzh7w1rf.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161017_093727_zpsq05lpsko.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161017_093655_zpsi2ahckwl.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161017_093945_zps9rbclbhu.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161017_093928_zps6csfle9a.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161017_093631_zps5qpojoj1.jpg)
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I should have said, the door doesn't flex anywhere near the way it did without this mod., and I reckon mirror assembly should be straightforward - brave words...!
Hope the offside takes less time to do.
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hi buddy
just a observation the mirror normally runs pretty close to the outer seal looks like a big gap along the top ??
also the iner part normall has a flat cover over the triangle piece and will the nuts stick out past the flat surface ?? looks like the top of door may be sticking out too far from wing ??
it may be me just looks like its sticking down ?
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mirror pics
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Thanks Wayne.
You're dead right that the top of the mirror mount is too vertical at the moment. The mirror is in its raw state and I need to have a play to see if I can get it to sit better. I'll put the window back in for that. I have seen some 360/430 replicas with the triangular mirror piece too vertical and the way your pics show them is much much better.
With a half nut on the studding, it looks like there will be enough of a recess to be able to get a plate in to cover up the cavity and the plate and studding. Yet to work that out.
The way I've got the studding to hold the mirror, [I'm a little reassured - that] the whole arrangement should be able to be adjusted/repositioned to get the best position/angle/fit - work to be done. It feels quite secure when the M10 nut is nipped-up.
Thanks again for keeping an eye on me.
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Hey Steve,
Builds looking good. Have you earthed your fuel neck yet? I heard stories in the past where un-earthed fuel necks can potentially cause sparks.. not sure how true they are but I've always earthed mine.. lol
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The static charge is caused by, what is called, electron striping. If the flow is slow, like out of a can, no problem. If the fuel is pumped it gets worse as the flow rate rises. You may not fill up at a pump with high enough rate for years, then one dry, sunny day, with no moisture in the air. POOF.
Aircraft refuelling from a bowser have the aircraft and the bowser bonded together with a bolted on earthing cable.
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Thanks Both.
Yep. I had seen the earth bonding on other builds, and Madman kindly reminded me some time ago. The earthing wire is now run back to the battery lead and separately to chassis for good measure, although, unfortunately I'll have no reason for visiting a filling station for quite some time :'(.
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After the better part of a month lost through work, a few little jobs moved forward.
The mirrors are now sitting a lot better than they were.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161110_154507_zps3mignyoo.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161110_154457_zpsgzvhkr8m.jpg)
The rear deck has it's first bond on the rear 75% of the length of the deck. The front end is still to be done. I plan to pull down the front of the deck to keep the gaps to a minimum between the deck front extensions and the top of the rear clip. Doing the bond in 2 stages seemed a good idea to give me a chance to adjust the fit rather than have too much to worry about in one attempt. I'm now leaving well alone for a couple of days before going further. The fit is as good as I could get it. It's not bad, but I'm sure the DNA guys would have done been better.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161110_152952_zps6jrz3sqp.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161110_152932_zpsqo5ixfo6.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161110_152809_zpskrfkcwwk.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161110_152825_zpsazjoijvs.jpg)
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Steve. I think you should have used more weight to hold it in place. You missed the kitchen sink.
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:)
If a job is worth doing...?
Managed to find some tapered window frame spacers to use on the gaps. That way I could balance the pressure of the blocks etc and the resistance of the adjustable/tapered spacers. Not sure how every one else did theirs, but this seemed to work well allowing some fine tuning.
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:-)
I had to reinstall the passenger mirror glass. One of the beauties of 3D printers is being able to make all sorts of little things so I made a set of stepped wedges to centralise the glass. Don't have to save them to use again as they are on file if I need any more.
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Lucky you ;D.
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Thanks Lee and Mark.
Lots of bling now ordered for the outside of the car...... needed in the future sometime.....
Not sure it makes sense buying badges while the car is still not fully bonded, but hell, it's fun.
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How did you get your wing mirrors to sit like that? ::)
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Hi Daz.
A single piece of M10 studding bonded into the mirror molding, and plenty of fettling. There are some pics in my thread. I'm happy with the fix, and it will mean I can remove the mirrors if needed. The mount seems solid as well with the builder strap I used and foam in the top of the door.
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Daz, ref. your message.
The horns on the door skins do sit at a different angle to the screen surround and the door glass.
Here's mine with the mirror removed.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161120_103859_zps5pls6jzr.jpg)
I played with the geometry but lapping the mirror as needed to get it to sit in the right place. Took a lot of fiddling and I'm sure there is a better way. Mine now mount solidly with just the studding on a single mounting, and can be removed as they are not bonded on.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161017_093928_zps6csfle9a.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161017_093727_zpsq05lpsko.jpg)
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Badge size 74mm x21mm x3mm thick £40
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THANKS LEE............. Banana hub plates, disks, centre plates and screw plates received. Will need to modify the hub plates to hold the dummy callipers I've got as they're different to the DNA GRP ones
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161119_102817_zpsi841elpj.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161119_102836_zps496asdfi.jpg)
Prep'd and ready for priming
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161120_101849_zpsl1pimefe.jpg)
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I like the badge M.
Steel or plastic?
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Stainless steel, would benefit with a final polish
MADMAN
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Really pleased with the disks/centre plates/tags from Lee.
The Ebay/Malaysian Brembos seem ok. I've found some Ferrari transfers to replace the "Brembo", and have ordered some 10mm black acrylic to copy what Paul[79] did with pretend pads.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161122_160338_zpsnyqbsblz.jpg)
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Wow, look fantastic. I need to find brakes for my 5cudo kit!
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Do look good Steve with them callipers.
Looking forward to seeing them on the car
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Thanks matey. You got me out of trouble with the brake kit.
Much appreciated.
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Hi everyone.
In Yves thread, he mentioned and showed a picture of a Z shaped bracket said to be a "rear diffuser mount".
I haven't got any of these in my kit, and [when back from more work travel], will be starting to look at bracing the panels on my car.
I haven't been able to find any pictures on the forum of these brackets installed. Can anyone please point the way. Otherwise, I'll just carry on making up straps etc as needed inc. mounting the diffuser.
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I'll send you some photos on the what's app
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Terrific. As always, very grateful. Thanks matey.
Steve - bored, been sitting in Zurich airport for 5 hours waiting for a connection - would rather be under the car.
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Happy Christmas everyone...!
After a month away from the car due to business travel and family hols., managed a few hours to move the exhaust forward.
Once I have the geometry sorted, I'll look at having the joints tacked then fully welded. Apologies for the poor quality of the pics.
I've assumed I'll need to have the mixture adjusted as the new free flowing pipe. In my old bike racing days, I once put a hole in a piston through running too weak and overheating. Anyone else had experience of this?
Tail end:
The carbon fibre sleeves are spaced off the ststl pipes so should give a heat gap/barrier for the body.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161224_135322_zpsrb9vuyei.jpg)
Used 4mm Alloy plate as heat sink and Alloy 25 x 25 x 4.8mm angle for structure for the tail pipe tethers. I'll add some thin gauge heat shielding to protect the rest of the bumper bar later. I've seen an MR2 kit with paint burnt off the bumper bar and a lot of rust - must prevent that. The tether U mounts seem to work well fully isolating the tail caps so there's no risk they will beat the car to death. The plate and angle parts are spaced off but bolted to the bumper bar.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161224_163900_zpstlnaicvf.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161224_163817_zps8tjdbrao.jpg)
I'm happy with the end cap angle against the rear clip but need to sink the caps a little further inward, but that will come once I've cut and shaped the collars protecting the GRP.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161224_163757_zpshxvep8k7.jpg)
Collars need cutting and shaping.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161224_164146_zpsxahgwi43.jpg)
And an ad-lib that I'm sure has been done before by others [apologies]..... one of the neighbours liked the 'bucket seat' I've been sitting on to move the car in and out of the garage.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20161204_104409_zpsriexnvml.jpg)
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Steve. Looking good mate. Most of this won't show, but you (and us) will know it's been done properly.
I thing Car Builders Solutions have just introduced heat shield material.
I do notice that you are using the one of the traditional builders drivers seats. All it needs a Ferrari sticker.
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Hahaha.
Thanks F.
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I remember an old story from my air force days.
A Propulsion Technician was doing a full re-heat ground run on a Lightning, but, as the ejector seat had been removed for servicing, he was sitting on a milk crate. The lightning, being a frightening beast, managed to jump the chocks and immediately began hurtling down the runway. So the guy took off, flew a circuit with the wheels down, and landed it (sort of) all while sitting on the milk crate.
Even back then (early 70's) none of us knew if it was really true....but the legend persisted....so it was either true, or to good a story, to die ;)
And I should know...........because I was that Technician..............(of course I wasn't ;D)..........I'm Spartacus
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Great to see your back on it Steve :) was going to contact you to see if any progress but know you travel a lot,
Exhaust looks great
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Steve, please forgive me for this one off hijack of your thread.
Sir P. I used to negotiate ( trade union thing) wish a man who had served in the early warning radar establishment.
At the time of the U2 a blip was spotted on EW radar. The Americans were contacted and they said it was one of theirs, but not to bother 'cos we wouldn't have anything that could reach it, but a Lightening was scrambled anyway.
A short time later an, in an American drawl, a voice said where's this 'plane you were sending up. A suitably British voice replied "I'm right above you sunny"
Don't know if it's true but the lighting was only a super blow lamp with a man in it.
Again my apologies Steve.
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No worries at all F.
Thanks Mark; yes, work is heavily impacting spare time. I'm in Brittany next week, and then w/s 16th Jan. I'm in St Maarten at a sales conference. All sounds nice, but there really is no glamour in business travel. It's just hard work. Looking forward to seeing your 360 on the road...! It looks like it will be something very special.
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Love the exhaust Steve
Looking very smart
I'm looking at doing something similar with my exhaust tips, as they stick out a little and you can see the back edge.
So hopefully these carbon surrounds will mask this.
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Very nice Lee. I was a big fan of Akrapovic on my bikes. Very good quality. Mine tips are Malaysian specials ;D.
I think I mentioned, DNA didn't have an exhaust for me, and I've been quoted between £800 and £1,200 for a one-off ststl zorst with no guarantee it would have been what I wanted.
The parts for mine cost less than £400, but I did need to buy a flaring tool and an impact wrench.
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Shame your not closer steve, I could have got you the stainless exhaust fully made and fitted for around £800,which would mean that would be one less job for you to do.
With reference to the tips, I'm thinking of making my own and not buying any, as I just need the outer carbon sleeve.
I'm thinking of 80mm aluminium pipe, cut into the correct shape (longer than the existing exhaust tips, to cover more of the rear of the tips where the welding is)
Then painted and carbon fibre hydro dipped.
Then riveted to the existing exhaust tips to hopefully get the desired effect.
At a fraction of the cost too.... ;D
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Sounds a good plan.
I know mine won't look authentic, but fancied coming out the back. I thought Beany's car looked good that way.
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No, yours will NOT look authentic!
You'll just have to settle with looking like a super-rich dude who had not only the bucks to buy a Ferrari, but to do it up! :D
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... and since we are all into replicas - take a look at this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ILCo3jGmQw
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Finally able to get into the garage again...!
Had an issue with the side indicators I received with the kit. when opening, the front edge of the doors fouled the supplied parts. Simple solution; bought shorter bodied parts. Kit ones on the right, new ones on the left. They are still close to the door, but are good enough.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170108_091709_zpsssfizqa8.jpg)
I made up some simple brackets to bond to the inside of the body and will tie-wrap the lamps to the bracket after painting.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170108_091558_zpslpa5orcx.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170108_091740_zpsbbb3okrx.jpg)
For the headlights, I felt the housing and lens would be better off mounted directly to the body rather than have the beam-lamp and mounting bracket offered up to the moulded light housing. The light housing and beam lens geometry would still be registered together given the 'Z' brackets holding the front clip to the chassis headlamp brackets. Regular Big-Head bolts seemed to have flanges that were too big, so I made my own - 5 off around each headlamp housing. Apologies for the junk pics. All will be a lot tidier on final fit.
I would be interested if those with more knowledge can see any pitfalls with this approach. I plan to see if there is likely to be much movement between the beam lens and the opening in the headlamp housing. I wouldn't want to clamp the housing in this way AND bond the housing to the beam bracket as the plastic housing would then become 'structural'.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170126_180853_zpsqzktnyud.jpg)
Wiring tidying/paint/washers and nylocs to be added later.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170208_120944_zpsacr4n1ta.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170208_121035_zpswewyqmgp.jpg)
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Back from travels and keen to move forward.
first issue.... I had made a huge clanger when bonding the body on. I've never been happy with the fit of the doors. So I cut the skins off and re-bonded them. Had to be done as I would always have hated the alignment. Really pleased with the outcome. the plane levels for both doors look near perfect now. Took me a long day to get the kit doors off and clean them up. Bu tso pleased I did it. Have now fallen back in love with the car...!
The mistake I made as a novice mbilder was to rely on screw mountings for the door skins to align. On the second time, I simply used sightlines drawn on the doors and panels and then aligning by eye when bonding using packing and props for positioning - I should have remembered the advice given to me by Brian!
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Had the windscreen removed. Figured working on the interior would be much easier with it removed.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170304_104505_zpsqjuuijtv.jpg)
Love this gadget. It's saved me a lot pof pain. £16 in Aldi.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170304_184134_zpsdp3soywn.jpg)
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Thanks Mark[360]. Very happy with the StStl manifold.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170304_101546_zpstoxeuwcl.jpg)
Exhaust now fully sealed. Will consider having it welded later once I'm further with the build.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170304_100811_zpsee404jcf.jpg)
Cut and offered up rear grill and backing panel, and the grill and dummy engine supports.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170304_100547_zps8u13oqzj.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170304_100643_zpsjccz7rhz.jpg)
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I've taken the rear deck off so I can add the Anderson clamp and finish off the straps to hold the bottom of the rear clip and to support the diffuser. Thanks to Paul79's thread showing me the way, I made up brackets to hold the third brake light. One of the simpler jobs I've done.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170304_094535_zps7hzmtaab.jpg)
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No problem steve, great work glad your back on the car :)
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Looking good Steve i did the sane with my headlight lens and it works ok but i put some rubber rond the head light to see it but it was to hard and i cud not just it
Mark
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Thanks Cheets. Did you bond the headlight housing to the lamp bracket as well, or just offer the lamp up to the back of the housing?
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Faced another issue today. I haven't been happy with the flexibility on the front clip in front of the doors. Just light pressure can distort this thin section.
Where the panel should sit:
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170305_104317_zpseln5r65e.jpg)
Pressed inward:
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170305_104303_zps9d32rqr9.jpg)
Pulled out:
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170305_104309_zpsuthdesir.jpg)
I've had a go at making up a securing strut/strap to hold the panel in position and tied to the chassis. First attempt didn't work as I couldn't position the strap where it wouldn't foul the leading edge of the door:
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170211_133039_zpsojfqjnkk.jpg)
Had another go. Made up a mounting plate for the chassis, and a piece of angle to bond to the inside of the flexible section of the front clip. I put a rivnut on the angle to take a length of M8 studding. This seems to be successful. It misses the edge of the door, and makes the section of the clip solid. Pleased with this. Also, the angle is set far enough back from the arch so it will allow the arch liner to fit in front of it and provide another mounting point for the liner.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170305_112132_zps2uclepbv.jpg)
With the passenger door open:
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170305_114729_zpsyofh4wcw.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170305_114735_zpsvsm8e5sp.jpg)
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You need to check those as the mud shields fit that far back on the frt so they miss the wheels that the shields can rub the door edge so the shields will definitely hit those brkts.ive looked into this before and it hasn't worked.not enough room.the arch liner has to be lifted and pushed back as far as possible as no room to turn wheel or when going over bumps.the arch liner doesn't fit on the leading edge of wing it's pushed back a few inches.
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Thanks Wayne.
Guess I need to rethink.
I did consider running a piece of angle vertically up the inside of that clip section packing and bonding taking in the convex shape. Thought that would give structure, but I guess that will have the same problem.
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keep up the good work Steve. flying along now...roll on the summer months so you can drag the car out of the garage to work on it... ;D
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Thanks Paul. Yep, I have 2 small single garages - doesn't make life easy this time of year. It's a squeeze doing anything around the car.
I straightened the front wheel tracking yesterday. When I did the suspension mods last year, I bashed the arches to clear the wheels and aligned the wheels by eye. Yesterday I made sure the the wheels are parallel, and they can be formally toed-in and aligned [in many months time] when the car goes to MoT. I then noticed the offside tyre could touch the arch on lock. I guess adjusting the tracking allowed more of a turn on that wheel. Wheel and hub came off and the 14lb sledge came out again. I now have a fat-finger width clearance around both wheels at worst cases in the bashed area - without the arch liners fitted. The critical area seems to be between 30 and 60 degrees when looking at the offside wheel with zero degrees at 12 o'clock. Do you guys think that is likely to be enough clearance, or do I need to bash some more? I would prefer to finally get this bit over and done with, and forget it.
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fat finger should be enough, if it,s a metric fat finger ;) ;)
MADMAN 8)
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Should I go by the fat finger measure, or by the rule-of-thumb? ;D
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I often measure by the British Standard Thumb (BST). This is the distance between the front edge of the nail to the centre of the first nuckle joint and is about 1.5". The Standard Metric Thumb (SMT) is about 40mm. These measuring devises are fully portable and come as part of a ten piece set. It is currently under discussion about how clause 50 will effect the use of the SMT.
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Worth mentioning;
Mine has been out in the open a few times recently to get better access to work. A neighbor brought 2 friends over to look at the car. they have a Cobra and a V8 Westfield, both factory built. Both these guys said they wished their cars had panels as straight as the 430 - and mine is still raw un-sanded gelcoat...!
Compliments to DNA.
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The Baby has gone off for prep and paint.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/bc3c7d40-f1d7-48b7-9f4a-b3e8b8ca9525_zpsozfhjnxb.jpeg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/568f9ef5-814b-4442-9e3a-654f8e6a2b1a_zpsrvvtc9fn.jpeg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/cd14fb57-72c1-4e26-b59a-a6bddcf19342_zpsiwdzsgf2.jpeg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/fb2adbe7-f9d5-4dcb-a7e3-c63401c61b50_zpsg0aglqmh.jpeg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/8af8c683-5fee-40e1-b4e1-68c094e73b82_zpsruvlkdi8.jpeg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/dd7c55b4-e191-45d3-b104-b9a1e90d667e_zpsr5rekzzk.jpeg)
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She is looking great Steve
Exciting times ahead 8)
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Thanks G.
Yep, a big milestone for me.
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Dropped in to see the car today. Prep for the paint process seems to be well underway. Please the wing shield recesses appear to be going in ok.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170511_130651_zps4oixe1xs.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170511_130534_zpso0ionfrl.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170511_130523_zpsefqjl09k.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170511_130513_zpsszuw5xsd.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170511_130631_zpsmryzqmli.jpg)
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While the car is away, trying to move other items forward. At the moment these parts are planned for carbon dip.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170415_104038_zpsioe5lkw2.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170415_105820_zpsxdvgknru.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170507_091255_zpsjnebtqgh.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170507_091304_zps8dpjvfde.jpg)
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On the fake dash, I figure I can hold the cover onto the MR2 dash with bonded studs so it can be removed if needed. The outer edge of the cover can have adhesive backed foam so stop any rattles or creaks - is the theory. The stud plates were bonded on in situ on the car before it went off last week.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170506_115406_zpspqiimkkl.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170506_115354_zpsm7nrhnxd.jpg)
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Hi Steve4321,
while you are at this stage with the dash vents/HVAC surround have a look at Plils99 build thread page 59, both Phil and I possibly others brought the HVAC unit forward and blended it into the surround under the three dash vents, I think it,s worth the extra work before carbon dip, but you may prefer it set back.
MADMAN
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Thanks M.
I'll have a look.
Appreciated.
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Primer filler and guide coat on, and flattening underway. Happy with progress so far - though I've very little experience of such things. Hopefully all will come good in the end. Probably a bad thing dropping in to see progress - better just to see the end result???
The guys said there are a lot of pin-holes they have to fill/cover, which I gather is normal.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG-20170516-WA0000_zpsbzehfewy.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG-20170516-WA0001_zpsw993k2pl.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG-20170516-WA0006_zpssvzxbt1f.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG-20170516-WA0007_zpsgle2nrfy.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG-20170516-WA0004_zpsh7fuqhga.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG-20170516-WA0005_zpszqxopupy.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG-20170516-WA0003_zpsvvhg1lbi.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG-20170516-WA0002_zpswaofnt7l.jpg)
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Wayne would probably explain it better, but...
When the gel coat is applied there is always a chance of air getting into the liquid, either through agitation or within the mix. The car should be baked to pop the little bubbles near the surface, these are then filled with cellulose putty. If this is not done then there's a chance that the bubbles will pop the paintwork in the summer sun.
D
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Hi
Yes d your correct.bake for 3 times at different temps to blow the resin then pick out the holes.also if that's polyester there using then hopefully there blocking it with the doors on too as the swaig lines and levels could be way off as polyester is pretty thick and could be just a millimetre out and the lines won't match up.ive seen this happen before and it's not pretty lol
Yes fiberglass can pop in the summer heat and you can never truly stop it but you can get rid of quite a lot.
I'm sure the body shop knows this I don't want to seem like I'm telling anyone there jobs.
Hope this info helps :)
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Thanks Both.
Great advice.
I'm stopping by when I can to watch what's going on. I'll pay particular attention to alignment after blocking :-).
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Things are moving on....
The guys have had the car nearly 4 weeks now. Still a long way to go.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170520_122549_zpsdmmzsyuy.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170520_122620_zps6brvw6am.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170520_122646_zpskhv2kgfm.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170520_122710_zpsixmjbq6h.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170520_122853_zpsqaahyrv6.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170520_122902_zpsszraaims.jpg)
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And the diffuser in anthracite semi-gloss. Love it.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170528_081441_zpsyst4qhqr.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170528_081550_zpscbd5jvuw.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170528_085324_zpsklferqlu.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170528_091534_zpsopvphycc.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170528_093448_zpshq8x7ly2.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170529_102933_zps5sbrggfn.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170529_102949_zpszzig2moc.jpg)
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Wow :D great to see steve, it's coming along a a good pace, won't be long now
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Looking good steve
Diffuser looking familiar ;D
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Thanks guys for the continued support.
Yes mate [Lee], and I like the idea of 3 stage anthracite on the wheels as well - sorry if I'm copying ;D.
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'Stainless steel' paint on the vent bezels. Really happy with them. Still think the surrounds would be good carbon-dipped.
If I stay with black, they'll be painted by the bodyshop and gloss. Liked Paul's and the quality of the paint Wayne did for him.
Saw one at Stoneleigh [can't remember who's], and I thought the vents looked really good with the black/grey carbon.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170529_174240_zpsbdotltld.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170529_174255_zpsjz1gadlj.jpg)
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Loving the vents mate..!
Simply Lovely........ ;D
Look amazing
Personally I'd keep with the anthracite theme and tie everything together, but that's what makes these cars so good, everyone does things slightly different
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Big thanks to Paul[79]. Very good of you matey.
Binnacle cover arrived on Saturday. I didn't have one, and making one without a model to copy or take a mould from would have been a pain.
Paul to the rescue........
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Would help if I added the pics.
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170529_200135_zpshco8cghu.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/IMG_20170529_200144_zpsv5ifsznq.jpg)
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Baby is getting prettier by the day.
Over 6 weeks into the process:
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/F3_zpsd3nmv6uw.jpg)
(http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/F2_zpsn7stpgg2.jpg)
[img]http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q722/Steveukwaters/F1_zpswmr3kjq6.jpg/img]
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Ummmmmmm
White
Nice choice mate
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Thanks Lee.
Amazing how much bigger the car looks in white...!
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Well, welcome to the white club Steve
It won't be long now till you have yours looking like this mate
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:))))))))))))))
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Love it.
Hopefully will have it back by the end of next week.
Can't wait.
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Hi All.
I'm trying to find someone to do the interior leather for me. Tried 2 places so far. The first said he wasn't confident he could provide what I wanted, the second seen today will give me a guide cost, but can't take on the work until the end of October.
I'm in Plymouth, but am willing to travel to get the right job done.
Any recommendations please, and what should I expect to pay for leather on :
DNA dashboard with dummy airbag panel and binnacle cover.
DNA door cards with armrest and pocket cover.
DNA roll-bars.
I'm building the centre console which will also get done when ready.
Grateful for any suggestions/recommendations?
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The problem you are going to hit with any trimmer (as far as I've found so far), is.... they are ALL very busy, and if you've found one that can do you work in Oct (this year), I think you've found the one to use.
Most work on a 6 month league time before they will even start to look at the job.
So unfortunately, I would be very surprised if you find anyone to look at it any quicker than that.
Prices are hard to for anyone to give you ideas, as it all depends on :
Material
Trimmer time frames
How professional you want the finish
The amount of stitching you require
Etc etc
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Hi Steve
5 years ago I started to look for a trimmer to do my car in the Essex area, 25 trimmers later and I choose this company for the proceeding work
https://en-gb.facebook.com/Neils-Auto-Interiors-247412465277288/
My criteria was- a good look at the cars in the shop ( a vintage Porsche and a full vintage custom hot rod trim including the boot which opened up to a bench seat), recommendations from previous customers and owners clubs. and time spent with me going through the design of the Ferrari interior and explaining the differences between a GOOD leather and a cheap leather......
The company's work was faultless, his seats didn't have one crease (my main concern when looking at other trimmers)
This is going to cost me ££££, I'm going to go for Scottish leather, he'll also do the red carpet and my roof. This guy isn't cheap, but it's a Ferrari replica knock off and I want it to look as exotic as possible, this means a top notch interior finish.
I've budgeted around £4000 for all the work, the interior is around £2500, the carpet £300 and the roof around £1000 (including fitting). Not cheap, but I'm confident every time I sit in the car my grin will always be there.
D
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Thanks fellas, all good advice. I'll take notice.
Being realistic the car won't be on the rod before the weather closes in for winter, so I'm not going to rush things. Take time and roll on to spring.......
I'll go with October for the dash, door cards, roll-bars and also the centre console.
The seats are.... taking a back seat [sorry]. I'm still not sure what I want to do, so no snap decisions.
Now I've lost Photobucket - once I've worked out how to upload pics, I'll post a few of recent progress.
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Maybe this will help with posting pictures?
http://www.dnaoc.co.uk/index.php/topic,3475.0.html
- tenpin
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Thanks. Fortunately worked it out earlier today ;D.
I had been through those instructions before, but had been outsmarted when I couldn't see the pictures in the preview. Up and running now.
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the Baby recently came home from the paintshop.
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First thing I did was get some badges on - something I've been looking forward to for a long time.
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More pics before she went under cover.
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Lights and reflectors in now. Took some rework with the wiring. A number of loose connections and some water damage - I should have protected the cabling and connectors better for the wet and dry and machine polishing...!
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Dummy brakes all in now.
Stole Paul's idea for adding fake pads.
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Now working on the interior. Moving the center console forward. Need to cut in the window switches, and I'll also have the hazard switch on the tail end of the console.
I figured alloy sides to reduce the wall thickness given the need to add a little foam then leather. Going to see if I can route the MDF edges to soften the corners. Will coat the MDF to seal it in case of moisture damage.
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Pleased with the way the exhaust has worked out, and my LED lamps for the number plate.
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I figure I should have waited until I had checked the fit on the leather clad dash, but I couldn't wait. Love these.
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Looking good Steve about time there was another white 430 on here with a quality build like lees 430 :)
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Agree with Wayne ;D
Looks great Steve..!
Keep up the good work mate
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Thanks fellas. I do love the rosso cars, but mine had to be white. There was no other way.
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Steve, looks fantastic in white. My white toyarri will be back on the road next week after a full rebuild. Pics to follow
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Looking forward to seeing...! ;D.
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CHUFFED...!!!!
V5 back today. The baby is now registered as a "DNA 430 Spider".
Only posted the application 15 days ago - result.
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What did you have to send in to get re registered Steve (photos, etc)?
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Well done Steve glad to hear you got your log book changed to a DNA 430 spider looking forward to meeting you at Stoneleigh enjoy driving with the roof down take care John James
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Thanks fellas, I sent the DNA kit receipt, paint receipt [major cost], pics of the original car, the stripped car, and the 'complete' car in the MoT station, the recent MoT, and a completed DVLA form V627/1. And, said what I wanted the description to be. There were no Qs. Just got the V5 back saying it was the DNA and no mention of Toyota or MR2 anymore ;D
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Cheers mate, Will have to do mine when finished
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These clowns quoted me £10k for a respray on this current MR2 I got, I said is that including removing the engine and painting the bay for that and they said No its just the body....AS IF! lol
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To be fair most professional body shops won’t touch a fiberglass kitcar and if they do they don’t polyester it first it’s just primer then paint.on average a full repaint on s normal steel car through insurance is around £4.5-5k so doing a kitcar is longer and harder and costs more so really a estimate of around £7-8k seems acceptable not sure who quoted you £10k but that could be there going rate.i know some kitcar places have quoted £8k 5 years ago.there’s too many horrendous paint jobs out there on kitcars for around £3k I have one in now that’s been done and it’s far from 50% great.it’s what you want to pay for a quality job.problem is some people can’t see a bad job from a good one so I suppose it’s all on how it’s seen 😊
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Can you explain in more detail, the real cost is in the prep, not the spraying.
Why does a GRP car need more prep than a steel one? If the fibreglass moulding is wobbly, bodyfiller galore, I can see the work of course. Same with other GRP cars like Lotus, TVR etc, not exclusive to kitcars. A professional sprayer not wanting the work? hmm
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The difference in a lotus mould to a kitcar is lots different.I’ve worked on lotus eTc and even bmw use fiberglass boots etc on some of there cars but the finish is night and day better.dna kits were one of the best kits out there but the process of fiberglass is to use a polyester spray filler which is basically a filler sprayed on.it levels the ripple affect of the body but doesn’t sink.then it can be primed and painted.primer shrinks and if applied too thick to cover ripples it will shrink back in time.
It’s all in the prep work.anyone can paint one but if the prep isn’t good enough then it will turn out no good.
A steel panel is straight.no ripples or chance of sinking back.most body shops don’t know what polyester spray filler is.they just do standard work.but some old school body shops use poly but the price to do this procedure is increasing year by year.I’ve done loads now and the process of blocking is immense.
It’s a tough job snd the prices reflect that work :)