DNA Owners Club
DNA Owners => Build Threads => Topic started by: firefife on December 22, 2017, 09:48:50 PM
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Hopefully worked out how to start a new topic.
I have gone quite a distance with my build so please be patient as I add pictures
Will start off with my donor Z3 before the start
Age related plate now registered. I used it as it was for quite a while to check it out, As I had sold my Dino, I took it to a few shows but obviously couldn't use it to get in. Put a few miles on as most shows I go to are 200 or more miles each way
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Trimming rear boot section
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Main trimming done on rear
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Rear light holes cut
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Side grilles cut out rear
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Drilling switch holes in dash
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Dash binnacle
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Inner arch lining removed
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New IFS legs had to be fitted & new shorter springs, see difference in heights
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Ball joints needed replacing
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Control arms cleaned, painted & new ball joints
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New IFS legs, brake discs & pads fitted
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New discs, pads, rear suspension & springs
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Rear cut lines marked
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Z3 trimmed & ready to go
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Don't use angle grinders without a guard - or if you do at least be careful
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Petrol filler lowering bracket fitted
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1st stage of fitting body, both doors loose fitted
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Rear section in position, not fixed
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Boot hinge, base not yet bonded
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Sorting out petrol flap, needed more trimming
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Will post more later
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Body panels in position
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Rear of grille alloy tack welded
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Headlight back frames in position
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Grille in position - a bit tight
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Alignment much better
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Spacers made up from nylon rod to space grille surround to nose cone
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Nardi steering wheel holes pitch
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Holes in hub boss drilled & tapped
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Windscreen wiper motor wired up with block connector. Had a hell of a job as wipers didn't seem to work properly, turns out that when static, the wipers won't work as you think they should - only when vehicle is moving.
Jacked up rear of car & put on axle stands, put it in gear & went through switch sequence & all appears to work as it should do.
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Bonded & chocked up to set
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Bonnet hinges in position
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Bonnet in position with dabs of bonding to hinges
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NS top had to be re bonded & chocked to set
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NS gapping now much better
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Had to trim wheel boxes inner spacers to fit
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Bonnet loosely bolted to hinges
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Bolts tightened & last hole drilled & tapped
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All bolts in position & tightened
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Small section cut out to lower plate to accomodate bonnet height
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Sprung latch bonded into position
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Sprung latch drilled, tapped & bolted
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Centre height bracket positioned in centre of slot ready to adjust. When at right height it was secured with bolt through the hole & tightened up
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Front height turntable adjusted & bonded in position
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Bonnet catch plate fixing bracket bonded in position
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Bonnet latch plate bonded & screwed into position
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NS wing bonding trimmed & cleaned up a bit
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Tapping M5 thread in grille for brackets
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Grille brackets bolted & secured
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Grille temporarily secured in position
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Pulley for outer door handle was too low, so raised it
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Bonding consolidation holed drilled in doorskins
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Edges of door skins with bonding on to be placed in position
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outer view of door latch mechanism
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Inner handle rods made in 2 pieces
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Gapping coming together (When taken to paint shop, told they are too tight & they would have to open them up for polymer)
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Tried mirror fitting to check views
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Front bumper iron in position
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Gear lever tapped to M5 & recess holes drilled in Z3 lever. I thought it would be easier to remove if necessary
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Rear bumper tried in position over rear iron
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After central locking & unlocking car the OS door latch wouldn't work, needed slightly more return pressure on the door lock so fitted light spring. NS was okay but fitted a spring anyway
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Love the build lots of information for other people who are building their cars keep up the good work all the best John James forgot to ask have you got it painted yet and what colour are you going for ??
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Glad you think it worthwhile John, finally sorted out the photo sizing.
They haven't started my paint yet as they are doing Mick's first (owner of the paint shop) I am going for the Azzurro California blue. Andy from the paint shop says hopefully Mick's will be out of the oven by the time they get back on 2nd Jan. Fingers crossed
Have a great Christmas mate
Ian
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Gents
I had the same problem with my doors, the latch would not move far enough to make the microswitch on the B pillar, where the latch in the door clamps around the catch on the pillar....got locked in once.
I faffed around with return springs, without much success. In the end a simple fix proved the best. I bought two small builders right angle fixing brackets (98p I think)
These were fitted onto the door latch inside the door, the small part that the push button presses on to, which then lifts.
This gave the latch the extra leverage and throw that it needs to allow it to work properly, you just thread the cable through the end hole on the right angle bracket, and hey presto, doors work a treat, with no breakage of springs to worry about.
I attach a couple of pictures, they are not brilliant because they had to be taken through the work aperture in the door....but you can probably work out what you are looking at.
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Thank you sir p that's a brilliant idea that will be helpful two other people I think I've been quite lucky haven't had a problem with my driver's door but my passengers door it works but to undo it you have to be on the outside push the button and then you have to physically push the door in and then it opens it's a little job I will sort out at a later date but keep up the good work let's see loads of pictures over Christmas all the best John James
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I will check that out too. thanks for your feedback
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NS door aperture for window switch cut out
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NS window & interior door handle bits fitted
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OS door holes sanded down. Had several attempts to get the pulley into the right position
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NS windscreen surround initial trimmed down at bottom
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Grille surround chrome sprayed over black 'undercoat'. More an alloy look than chrome
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Wiring stripped out & labeled
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Shear bolts removed from ignition switch, Had to use a small chisel to move them
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Gear lever fixed with 2 x M5 stainless socket screws. Used this method as easy to remove if necessary
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68) Ignition lock barrel first cut of unnecessary bulk
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Dash top trimmed & in position
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Is the gear lever part of the kit or bought seperatly?
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Hi jaguartvr, I bought a 'complete' kit apart from the seats at the beginning of the year & that came with it. Had to buy wheels, steering wheel & steering wheel hub seperately.
Apart from that, not included was interior upholstering, paint & tyres. I guess the gear lever came with the interior kit. Hope that is of some help
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Same as me Ian I bought the kit as well I'm glad I did saves a lot of trouble try to find all the bits.
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:)
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Rear panel trimmed & in position
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Handbrake hole cut out of centre tunnel
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Rear tunnel section still untrimmed
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Gear lever hole cut out of centre section
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Front of mid section to be cut off
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Front of mid section cut on guide lines
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Dash binnacle temporarily attached to cut down Z3 dash
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Tunnel in position, a bit tight so needs more trimming
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Handbrake in original position
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Hand brake raised. Supplied block on right hand side & spaced by nuts on left
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Seat belt slots cut in rear cover
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Roll bar receiver cut further for seat belt clearance & primed
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Steering column circlip back in position. Not the easiest of jobs as the steering column pulls heavily into the outer column, Drew it out & pushed on circlip at the same time using a collar & the end nut
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OS seat anchor fitted (2 modified thick washers used as spacers)
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Seat belts fitted to anchors
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Top binnacle now matte, much better
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Cut an inch off the steering column shroud for easier fitting through hole in dash binnacle
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My helper Boris watching on the sidelines
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The shroud was so tight in the dash that it sheared the rear half off when I pulled it, a clean straight break. Bonded with araldite
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New chrome windscreen surround in position with centre fillet, left the protective cover on till after painted. Had to trim the bottom sections
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Extra bonding at rear of glove box extension
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Upper steering shroud crackle blacked
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Top of steering shroud & glove box cover crackle blacked
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NS door panels in position
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To keep cruise control I had to cut out a large slot in the lower steering shroud which looked untidy & showing wires. Made up a cover to be bonded onto shroud when final finishing
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Glove box door hinge fitted & in position
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Strengthening cross bar removed & all brackets cut off as they are not required. Used this as an excuse to clean off & repaint bar
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Under dash without the bar, a lot more room, shame it had to go back
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Cleaned & painted cross bar replaced
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Brackets further trimmed on cross bar
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Lower windscreen trimm positioned & screwed in position
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Rubber trim in postion, holes underneath for screws
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Boot, hood & ignition switches wired up
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Extra spring fitted to boot latch
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Tweeter speakers fitted temporarily
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Boot latch plate repainted & fitted
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Tweeter speaker fitted to inner door panet
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Door rear aperture painted over raw holes edges & cover made & fitted
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In the garage waiting to be loaded onto trailer the next morning. Then off to Paint shop in Cannock
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Loading up, at least it was covered when it rained
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The off
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Arrived at Alan Ward in Cannock
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Into the paint shop
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Playing around whilst car away, will be a while. Dash re crackled & Both Inner door panels tops crackleblacked
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Dash re done
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Painted the Z3 front part of dash sprayed matt black
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Rear of the short chassis radio fitted in the rear of the glovebox
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Front of radio in glove box
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That's some trailer you've got there.
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Unfortunately not mine. A mate works with Superformance & they lent it to me (hope they will again when I pick up). By the way, he drove as I don't trust my reversing with a trailer that size due to lack of experience
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New wheels & Dunlop tyres in keeping with the era, although not cross plys, talking to Raceways about dummy spinners, no stock at the moment but sending me a couple of old stock ones to see if I can use my original backing brackets. Not sure about the fit on the outside of the wheels though, might have to use their adapter hubs.
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Bumpers are looking better as time goes on but still unsure of the longevity of spray can chrome paint + it looks more like a matt alloy. Have ordered a set of stainless ones from Harringtons (without brackets)
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Stainless slats still with protective film on polished side. Other side had to be polished with a polishing kit I bought from one of the shows years ago & never had success with, but came out not too bad on these
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Side vents stainless mesh cut to rough size ready to be shaped
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Using the Z3 side window vents as extra hot air extraction to the supplied vents. I can't see this being very effective though as there is no trunking to the vents & the hot air just goes into the front cover box. Any thoughts?
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Trimmed top edges off the DNA supplied vents so that hopefully the hot air will be directed better. Also cut down the side window vets to fit in to try & supplement warm air exit
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Z3 cigarette lighter back cut out & waiting to be trimmed
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Z3 trimmed mount over the lighter. I decided to fit the original cigarette lighter in addition to the supplide USB + I will also fit a double USB point. So many of my 'accessories' just have a cigarette plug fitting
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Bumpers are looking better as time goes on but still unsure of the longevity of spray can chrome paint + it looks more like a matt alloy. Have ordered a set of stainless ones from Harringtons (without brackets)
One of the Tribute owners had some bumpers chrome wrapped, you would not have known they were not chrome if you had not been told. I'm sure it would give a better finish than a rattle can.
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Hi Jaguartvr, I made enquiries with a couple of wrapping firms & was told that the chrome wrap wasn't as flexible as other wraps so couldn't guarantee the finish on old style bumpers. So I have ordered the stainless ones. at least they should last & act as bumpers should. Not that the GRP ones wouldn't. I intend to mount them onto the GRP ones after cutting them down. Thanks for your comments though
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Side vent stainless slats fixed into position with dab of bonding
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Glove box & surround area tidier
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Switch holes opened up to fit & some switches, etc in position
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Gauge surround aperture had to be 'skimmed' after crackle black done to fit surround
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Side vent slats cut & polished on dull side & Lower windscreen trim rubbers in position
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Repainted the satin black back to gauge surround, I made a right mess of one side 1st time. Sorted now
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Rear mes for side vents trimmed & shaped
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Rear mesh in side vents shaped & positioned, not yet bonded
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Bumper irons were a bit rough where the tubes slide into the back bit for adjusting in & out. Now de-burred, primed & painted
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Rear mesh in side vents shaped & positioned, not yet bonded
You could have the main bodies of the vents vacuum chrome plated, so long as your prep is good they are hard to tell from real chrome, probably around £120 for the pair.
I had my front grill surround done, much more like chrome than paint but my prep should have been better, I would suggest having the proffesionally painted in gloss black
and then plated. Let me know if you need any further details.
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Thanks, I have already had a word with Wayne (Beemabuild) + a couple of companys local to me here, I decided to go with this way for the time being & hoping to get the grill surround & the vents made. The company I got my stainless strip from said they would look at making me a couple of vents up next winter after the show season & Harringtons, who are the stainless bumper people, said they may start maling the grille surrounds.
Who did you get to do your vacuum chroming?
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It's a friend of a friend and they slip the parts in when they have space available. It does give a better and more hardwearing finish than the spray chrome but they are limited on size due to the size of the Vacuum chamber.
They could probably do the bumpers in 3 sections, shouldn't be too hard to make a cover strip for the joins.
Stainless as you are going is the best option, shame it's so expensive.
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I agree, it is very expensive but I think it will finish the car off & last.
If you don't mind, I will bear your offer in mind & if things don't go as planned - & your mate doesn't mind, then I will get him to sort out the chroming.
I am getting withdrawal symptoms whilst car is in paint shop & it is too far away to visit. Once I get it back, I still have a fair bit to do.
Just scratching around finding odd bits to do, surprising how many things you need the car handy to fit & finish off
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I had my headlights vacuum plated by a company in Tysley (Birmingham, for those geographically challenged) called Dual Plating. Great job if expensive, but one off isn't.
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Thank you furrari, I live down in West Sussex so a long way to go, although my car is being sprayed in Birmingham. I am hoping that my headlight cover surrounds are being made in stainless, if not, hoping he hasn't lost my originals to return.
If that doesn't work then I will have to think again
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Picked up centre tunnel & door cards from trimmers (The Trimming Centre, Lewes) Love the colour & great finish. Have to wait to get the car back for the rest to be trimmed
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Deciding to go against protocol & fit gaiter surrounds, easier to take off than removing the whole tunnel if necessary.
Besides, it will brighten it up a bit :D
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Yes they will look classy
MADMAN
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Thanks Steve, got them from Europa Spares in stainless. will look better with the gaiters on, they will tone them down a wee bit
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Advice from you 250 builders. Under the Z3 part of the dash where thr windscreen heat duct goes, it is open at both ends. Do you block the ends off - or leave them open? Just thinking that left open will reduce the pressure & flow to the windscreen.
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Any open duct that you are not going to be using must be blocked off. You need to make it as airtight as possible and remember that hot air will still be being pushed down the ducting and will weaken any glue.
I personally would cap the ends with some GRP. If they are not capped the air will take the route with the least resistance which will be any uncapped section.
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Thanks Steve, I think you are quite right. I have blocked off the big hole in the centre top of the heater with a piece of GRP. Only just noticed these ones looking at the pics
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I used two big rubber blanking grommets that were almost the exact size....trimmed them to a tight fit and then super-glued them in. There can be a lot of flow but very little pressure.
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Cheers SirP, that sounds a great idea. How do you find your heater works in general?
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Difficult to say really as I have not been on a run with it, and nor do I currently have a temperature gauge to tell me if it is up to temp.
I suggest it will be pretty rubbish, as I am not sure you get quite the full swing on the levers with the "Push/Pull" set up, coupled with the lack of trunking to the "feet" position. I suspect that de-mist will be quite effective though, as the OEM trunking remains.
I think the rest will be "better than nothing" ........but not brilliant.
Mind you I am prepared to keep an open mind, as having what was the "eye-ball" trunking blanked off, which is by far the biggest ducting....we might be pleasantly surprised....have to wait and see.
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Gotta be better than my Dino, the screen heat was next to useless. I have used the side window vents in the 'heat box' as well as the supplied round ones, unfortunately no trunking to them. Just hoping the heat build up will be fairly good, but not expecting miracles. Almost all the shows we go to are around the 200 miles each way so want a bit of heat for the first & the last ones.
We'll see I guess.
I have blocked off the large oblong hole between the windscreen vents.
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Progress at last, was baked in the oven for 5 hours with varying temperatures last Friday to open any air holes, then ground out & filled. Other filler to smooth out dips & 'crease' lines.
Thank you Mick from Alan Ward for photo updates
Hadn't realised how many dips in bodywork until areas pointed out when we took car into paint shop, but they would have noticed when primer went on & car was all one colour
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Bringing top of wings back to a point after removing flash lines
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More filling
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Even the rear didn't escape the filler treatment
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I think the darker filler is where the air pockets came through & they ground out around the area & filled
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Just pleased to see something happening, can't wait to get it back & start getting it back together
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Looking good :) there’s tons of work in fiberglass cars when done right and this Bodyshop will do a great job :)
Still quite a few weeks left to go after polyester but will be worth it :)
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I know, as you say it will be worth in the end.
Just frustrating waiting and scratching around for jobs with what I have at home but can't do too much without the car here.
Our chat the other day was very infinformative and have to say that the guys at Alan Wards have been great explaining what they have done, especially Andy.
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I found Andy and the team were extremely helpful, and kept me informed throughout the whole process.
They did a fantastic job, well worth waiting for ( mine was away from 10 July until Mid October, but John James got his in the queue first, so mine had to wait!!!). You will not be disappointed. What colour did you choose?
Jez
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They came highly recommended by Brian, I'm sure they will do a first class job.
I have chosen Azzurro California blue, but was tempted by a lot of other colours. Have had 5 red ones so decided against that
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Hi Ian they made a brilliant job of mine when I got it back I left it for a couple of weeks and then spent 6 hours washing it and waxing it. I will try and pop over at the end of this month or the beginning of February so you can have a look looking forward to seeing you John James
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Thanks John, look forward to seeing you and your 250. I haven't actually seen one finished yet
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Was going to use Sir Ps' suggestion of using blank grommets for blanking off the open ends of the windscreen heater duct. Didn't have any that size so looked at some spray can tops with collars inside.
Cut the collars out & it is a perfect fit over the duct ends
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Open end of windscreen heater duct & centre of spray can cap
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Vent sealed with spray can cap centre bonded on both sides
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Look what has just arrived, just have to get a mm or two shaved off the boss diameter
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very nice, they look the dogs dangley bits
MADMAN 8)
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Thanks Steve, need to get some centre suitable stickers now
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Careful what stickers you could spoil the look of the car that's only my opinion John James
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I agree John, I'm not one for plastering stickers everywhere & like to keep things subtle. would be best to have them etched but I don't know anyone that does etching
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Isaydingdong does some nice wheel centre stickers, I have used the Borrani sticker and someone else has used the Campagnolo stickers.
Something for everybody.
https://www.isaydingdong.co.uk/ourshop/cat_345535--C-Cagiva-CZ.html
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Thanks Steve, I will have a scrut at the site.
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Had all bosses shaved down a couple of mm to fit in wheel. 3 grub screws in spinner hub bosses
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3 grub screws in hub spinners
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All grub screws in right place this time (put them in last night then decided that I had put the short & long screws in the wrong parts)
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Centre boss fixed into wheel centre with 3 grub screws
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Spinner fixed into the hub & on wheel
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All wheels sorted now, just need my car back
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Have ordered some wheel centre stickers from 'I say ding dong' but have found these that I have had for a long time. Thought I would try one on a spare straight eared spinner I have, I think it looks quite discreet.
Will wait for the others to be delivered & decide which ones to use. the others won't be quite so discreet though.
What do you guys think of this one?
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100%. Very period. A moden gel badge would just look wrong.
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Think you're right mate
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Ian. We use laser etching these days but in the 60's these would have been acid etched.
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I looked at etching firms local to me but wasn't impressed by what I found, I will go along with stickers for the time being & maybe etch later. At least stickers can be easily removed
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Hi Ian is that a black horse on a chrome background it's hard to tell from the picture or is the horse slightly Grey. Had a look for the picture that I took at Stoneleigh last year but have not been able to find it John James
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Just a plain grey horse John, no background
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What I can see looks quite good but I will let you know when I pop down to see you I think it will be the Monday after the bath show at the weekend but I will phone first.
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Okay John, is that 12th Feb?
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Yes Ian it is the 12th looking forward to seeing you and you can have a good look around the car close up I've got a few ideas that you might be able to use on your car the trouble is I came up with the ideas after I've fitting my dash any news when you will be getting your car back John James
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Looking forward to it John, hope it is dry. Ideas always welcome. As I said, I have never seen a completed one apart from the first one DNA brought to Stoneleigh a couple of years ago, That has been improved since then & didn't have the interior.
I have only had i set of update pics (this last Monday) & keep phoning. I don't want to make a nuisance of myself by constant phone calls. When I took it up there they had just started Mick's (the owner) one so mine wasn't started straight away. They started mine the a couple of weeks before the pics. Hopefully they won't want me to collect the day you are coming, but I doubt it will be ready by then unfortunately.
I am running out of ideas of what to do whilst the car is away, even the radio box I need the car for measuring up - it is very frustrating as just want to get on with it.
What is your intention after the Bath show. are you travelling from home of somewhere else? Just to get some idea of what time you will get here. Thought if you are here late morning, we could perhaps go out for a pub lunch or something (Maureen included of course - that's my wife, she comes to all the shows with me which is nice to have company on such long journeys, and there is always other ladies present). I have put a little note in my diary.Hopefully see you on the 2th, take care & drive safely.
Ian
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Had 2nd set of update pics from Alan Ward Paint Shop.
Have to say that after the oven treatment there was more filling than I expected, but they do know these cars inside out.
Think it will be a cracker when painted.
Looks great without the quarter light windows, but door wont allow a full glass to go in & go up & down.
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2nd set of update pics from Alan Ward Paint Shop.
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2nd set of update pics from Alan Ward Paint Shop.
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2nd set of update pics from Alan Ward Paint Shop.
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2nd set of update pics from Alan Ward Paint Shop.
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2nd set of update pics from Alan Ward Paint Shop.
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That does bring back memories. She's looking good 👍 nice lines round the door and the fuel cap it won't take long now can't wait to see it with a bit of colour you take care John James
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Thanks John, they widened the gaps around the doors & lids as they would be too close when sprayed
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Ian. If you are looking at stickers I can recommend Stickers International. I have usd them several times, good work.
I have two orders with them at the moment. One is a metallic, brushed finish with text on and a horsey as a shadow behind the text.
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Thanks for that, I will have a look & save the site in my favourites. I did buy 4 chrome roundels with a black horse i the middle which looks nice but so far I think I prefer the grey horse I showed earlier (a bit more subtle). What I don't want is to over badge or bling it, have seen so many of those & it just doesn't look right. Subtlety is the key. I did consider not badging it Ferrari at all, but at the end of the day, it is what it is, a re creation of a 250 SWB California ::)
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Ian. My metallic stickers have arrived. They are 35mm x 16mm and look great. I know they are not what you want but I thought you might like to see the quality from Stickers International.
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They look great, where are you going to put them?
I will have to get some sill plates made up at some stage, don't know where to start looking yet but still a way off. Also will have to find somewhere to get my bonnet scoop trim made up. I tried with some 'L' section alloy but looks terrible
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Ian. There is a min order of £15.00 per design so I ordered a doz. They are for my new (recovered) steering wheel but I won’t hijack your thread. It will be on my Build thread when it’s back.
Sill plates. I made mine my getting some stainless (eBay) and using the plates from the SL as a template. (The artistry of a man with an angle grinder). Then I had them laser engraved. Stuck them on with double sided tape. Stickers are not tough enough to go on sill plates. If you want the font it’s called Ferro Rosso.
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Thanks for that info, a wee while before I am at that stage.
Look forward to seeing more of your updates
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Hi Ian I was talking to a friend of mine name William who work for a company at Canterbury and we have designed sill plates and an engine plate hoping to have them on the car ready for the show in February you can have a look and see what you think will be posting the picture when I get them. John James. 8). 8)
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Made up an engine plate John, not fixed on yet as was undecided whether to badge up as Ferrari or not. I have all the body badges & steering wheel centre now so will probably take that route
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The horn push for steering wheel - could do with a better smooth 'Ferrari' surround rather than the grooved Nardi one
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Where did you get the boss from?
I have my steering wheel and horn push, but still trying to source the correct boss adapter
Jez
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Hi Jez, I got the boss from Brian (DNA), had to drill & tap holes to fit. The existing ones were slightly different diameter but there were 'dips' where the correct position is so carefully drilled them & tapped in the threads. It is an OMP one.
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Hi Ian I like the engine cover I have done mine slightly different I will post pictures on my build. John James
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Ta John, look forward to seeing it
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Doors & lids stripped of, body ready for polyester primer & rest almost to same stage
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Doors & lids stripped of, body ready for polyester primer & rest almost to same stage
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Nice delivery this afternoon
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A lot of mess on the floor with pieces of broken polestyrene
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Well wrapped in bubble wrap
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Stainless bumpers from Vietnam, only a week for delivery once made
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They look the business, bloody heavy though. Just hope they fit the car when I get it back from paint. Can't wait
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If you follow my instructions they are easy to fit. Let me know if you have any questions.
Jez
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Thank you Jez, I have copied you pics & instructions. Just waiting to get my car back from paint now
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Would be nice if you could trial fit them before the paint goes on.
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I know, but car is in Birmingham & I am in West Sussex. It might even have been painted but they haven't let me know any updates since 2 weeks ago, so too late now. I will smother the area wit masking tape when I play around with it
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Hi Ian the bumpers look great looking forward to seeing then on the car, have you got any more chrome bits being made you take care John James
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Hi John,
They look decent quality & pretty hefty. At present, only having headlight surrounds & side grills being done in stainless, will go for the front grille surround a bit later maybe - when I have saved up some more ;D
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Some more update pictures from Alan Wards today, steady progress being made but cutting it tight to finishing before Stoneleigh. Told another two weeks before ready. Don't want them to rush it at the end though.
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Update pics from yesterday from Alan Wards Paint, panels are in primer to do next.
To my mind, it looks amazing. A lot of work gone into it.
Hopefully collecting on Tuesday week. Fingers crossed.
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Update pics from yesterday from Alan Wards Paint, panels are in primer to do next.
To my mind, it looks amazing. A lot of work gone into it.
Hopefully collecting on Tuesday week. Fingers crossed.
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Latest pics sent from Alan Ward, panels refitted. To my mind it looks amazing. Can't wait to collect it - hopefully next Tuesday
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Latest pics sent from Alan Ward, panels refitted. To my mind it looks amazing. Can't wait to collect it - hopefully next Tuesday
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Latest pics sent from Alan Ward, panels refitted. To my mind it looks amazing. Can't wait to collect it - hopefully next Tuesday. Just hope the weather improves
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Hi Ian do like the colour 8) 8). hope it's ready for collection next week at least if you can get the same trailer as last time when you get the car home he should be nice and clean and dry good luck mate, it was also nice to see on the last picture on the left hand side a 250 undercover and to the right hand side another one waiting to be sprayed, I think Stoneleigh is going to be really interesting there might even be more 250s then 430s you take care buddy John James
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Hi John, the one under the cover is Mick's (it's his paint shop), I don't know who's the other one is.
Can't wait to get it back, more sleepless nights ::)
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Looks great Ian....crikey you've got a lot of work on before May 1st though....I'm sure you will get there ;)
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I know Sir P, I won't rush it - but the advantage I do have is that I am retired so don't have to fit it into evenings & weekends. We will see.
Must definitely endeavour to get it finished by July though as we have booked up for the Le Mans Classic
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Collection from Alan Wards yesterday, Over the moon with the finish. looks like it is painted onto steel
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Gapping is spot on, I have some rebonding to do underneath as for some reason it didn't take well on a couple of the brackets :'( And yes. I did use the primer
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Safely home, glad we had the enclosed trailer so car still clean
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Tucked in the garage overnight ready to be pulled through into my workshop, hopefully today. I have to swap over everything from workshop & into the garage
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They also had a pair of stainless side vents made up for me which arrived just before I picked up the car, they also look amazing
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Not changing my seats until maybe winter time after I have saved up a little more money, so have to change the colour to suit rest of interior upholstery. Green won't go with the navy blue the car will be.
Bought a 'kit' from Bradleys (recommended by my upholstery guy). After cleaning & preparing the leather have put 4 light coats on at the mo. Pleased with the results so far, will put a couple more coats on tomorrow. Supposed to not do on a damp day but I don't know what options I have really.
Pic is new & old colour comparison
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A bit of advice from any 250 Cal builders. Need some info on oil temp & pressure sensors & where abouts are they in the engine/ Also, is anything extra needed for the water temp (sensors, etc.?
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I think as you look at the engine from the passenger side the oil temp and oil pressure senders are at the front below the oil filter housing, just behind the power steering fluid reservoir (I think that's what it is - the black thing ringed in my photo). You have to unbolt the power steering reservoir first and pull it out of the way.
Then you can see the senders, one has a single cable, the other has two. I believe they are the two we need to replace.
For the water temp, DNA recommended leaving the original sender alone, and putting the new sender into the engine block. Apparently at the driver's side, under the exhaust manifold there's a redundant plug that can be unscrewed, into which you screw the new ETB sender unit. You have to access this from under the car, and if you are really quick you can remove the plug and screw in the sender without losing much coolant. I expect you'll get that awful cold water down your sleeve feeling though......
I have not done mine yet, but have checked to find the locations. I don't have a deep enough socket to remove the BMW sender units at the moment.
Update. I did my water sender yesterday. Easy as pie.
Jez
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Thanks Jez, will have to investigate further when weather gets a wee bit warmer as my workshop is very confined.
Where do I get the senders from & what are they called?
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Did you get your instruments from DNA - The ETB set of tachometer, speedo and 5 smaller instruments?
The sender units were in the same box that the instruments came in. Only the matching senders from ETB will work.
Jez
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Yes, I got them from DNA, no sender units with them though.
Will ring Brian tomorrow
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Reminder; the older (98) M52 (2.8) engine that I have is quite different to this...only one oil sender, power steering reservoir in a different place, water gallery block drain also in a different place (apparently between cylinders 2&3 below the exhaust manifold....haven't been able to eyeball it yet)....will have to look from underneath when I have it back up on sticks.
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Mine is a 2.8 '99
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Aligning bumpers, Hard to do the NS as no room to check so using a string line as per the OS & hope it works the same.
Have trimmed the 'inner' GRP bumpers & bonded into position, next job is cut the ends off & fit stainless ones over the top. Looks good from this side.
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String to align front to rear bumpers, stainless ones still to fit over the top when GRP ones are final trimmed
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Looks Soo much better with the wire wheels than the aluminum. Great job!
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I can imagine you sitting in there with a black suit and bow tie. Shaken not stirred ;)
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Lol, a great image Kal ;)
Don't know if it will be ready for Stoneleigh, still a load to get sorted + upholstry :-\
Agree Cabbe, will put the fronts wheels on when & start work on wiring & side grille + wheel arch lining ;D
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Question to 250 California builders, When fitting rear lights, do you leave the rubber 'gasket' in position or remove it, when it is in position it overhangs the rear by about 1/8". Don't really like the idea of the metal back of the lights rubbing on the bodywork (although once tightened it shouldn't move).
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Rear starting to take shape now
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I bought some 2mm self adhesive foam sheet from eBay and made new gaskets, as the supplied ones were too thick and as you say made the lamp protrude beyond the bodywork.
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Thanks Jez, that is the lines I was thinking on
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I made mine using the thin white foam you get in packages, as I had a load of it knocking about. Used the thick rubber ones as a template......Just the job
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The gasket is to waterproof the lamp unit.
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Thanks guys, all good advice, I have ordered up some black 2mm foam, can't have it poking back out of line, would drive me mad
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Noticed how loose my fuse box lid was & thought that if it comes off on a bumpy road or whatever, I could lose in down the side, & thinking of solutions (straps, etc.). Thought I would try this option & it works perfectly.
Small angle bracket attached below my NS bonnet bumper with a slightly longer bolt. Bolted on a cut down longer angle bracket & it pushes down nicely on the lid.
Downside is I need a 13mm spanner to loosen it, No problem really as if I have to change a fuse then I would probably have to access my tools anyway.
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Nice...just got duct tape on mine...but I am just gash.
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Might even make a nice bracket up, but this works in the meantime. Just needed to check it worked :D
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How about a nice simple rubber strap with a hook on it.
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That's what I should have done before the body fitted Furrari, but not a lot of room to attach the strap & hook fixings. This is simple & works well ;)
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Trying to wire in ABS warning light & looking at Sir P's instructions, I can't find the box that his is connected to. Dash not in yet & my Z3 is a 2.8 1999 version - but sees different to Sir P's.
Why am I not surprised as not a lot is straight forward in my build???
Any ideas guys? Would be good to have one.
I have put 4 bullet LEDs between the speedo & rev counter, using one for driving lights, one for rear fog lights, want to use one for the ABS & a spare for whatever (again - suggestions please.
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I understand where you are coming from.
Mine being September 98 is also one that seemed to be built at the cross-over stage between build specs, with some bits in the pre-98/99 position and some bits in the post 98/99 position.
I suspect that your ABS module is probably one that has been moved from behind the glove box onto the control unit under the bonnet, so I can't help I'm afraid...Jez might be the man to ask, while you still have the dash out, as I think he picked his connection up from one of the dashboard pins.
As for the spare light....I fitted an ASC light, so I know if it is on or off....just a suggestion though...you could put the "check engine" light there perhaps, or "side lights on" or "A/C on" (job to see mine, due to position on the dash), plenty of choices!!
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Thank you Sir P, will have to investigate further
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Still haven't got my ABS light sorted. The pins I thought were correct turned out not to be. Then I got the problem with no power to my instruments do I am busy with that. Two fuses blown, but not yet sure of the cause.
I hate electrics on cars!!
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Thanks for your reply Jez, Just wired up the small gauges this evening.
Clock was not working due to fuse blown - sorted but the fuel gauge goes straight to full (I'm sure I didn't have a full tank when I started so when finished will have to fill tank & drive it around a bit to check it out.
Anyone else had problems with any of the gauges???
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Did you get the resistor from ETB to connect across the fuel sender wires? This is supposed to correct the resistance so that the guage reads accurately.
My fuse also blew for the clock after I first fitted it. Not sure why. At first it worked, but then later the fuse went and it stopped working. Not sure what caused it....
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Didn't get a resistor from ETB, just phoned them up - manager is off sick at the moment, says he will get him to give me a ring on Monday when he is back in. Thanks again Jez.
Just checked clock again this morning, time is still correct :D
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Two things;
1. My fuel gauge reads 3/4 full, and I know it was only reading less than 1/2 when I started. I have even run a separate wire to the tank sender...made it a bit better, because it was reading full before.
2. Mind you, I never thought the original gauge was much good anyway...it used to stay at full for ages then went down really quickly.
OK 3 things then;
3. Is anybody having trouble getting the clock to move forward quickly when setting the time. I have tried everything they say, like holding on to earth with my other hand, and it still won't budge....I even phoned them up, and all I got was "oh yes, they are a bit fiddly"....it ticks away fine, but I think mine might be cream-crackered on the rapid advance front!!
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I didn't have a resistor for the fuel circuit, hopefully they are sending me one then I will see how that works. (My Dino would show full until the tank was half empty then it would drop quickly & tank was was empty just after the gauge dropped just below 1/4 full.
I couldn't get the clock to set time, spent several attempts but my mate who is sorting out my electrics had a go & got it set within minutes
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wow....weird about the clock....do me a favour ask your mate how he did it would you?
Perhaps some humans have more electrical charge than others.... or something....or perhaps your mate is Uri Geller....speaking of which here is a picture of my lad with Uri (he was doing a job for him at his house) in front of that horrible car he has with all the bent knives and forks on it.
He bent a fork for my lad but made him promise not to sell it on e-bay :D
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Lol,
He touched the button & the earth behind the clock & held for around 10 seconds, simple as that. That was 2 days ago & still working. Mind you, I haven't got the dash in yet. All connected to a block & corresponds to block on the car wires so should be easy to work on should the need arise
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She's coming along now - BUT - connected speedo & tacho up, started engine & - nothing, except the little battery light shows red & doesn't go out. No other readings.
I hate electrics!!!!!
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I really feel your pain! I have battled with my electrics too, but hopefully I've sorted all my issues. Good luck.
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Ta mate, we will persevere ;)
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How have you guys set up the speedo calibration?
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Not yet....waiting till it's on the road.
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Me too. I have a nice 1.5 mile stretch I can do a measured mile on just outside our village. That's my plan....
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Passed MOT yesterday with flying colours & no advisories, back home & taxed it.
Still a fair bit to do, will do that over time. At least it is up & running.
Took it to trimmers today but looks like I won't get it back until 1st May.
Some important issues to sort out hopefully before Stoneleigh. passenger door keeps slipping the cable off the pulley, NS window not working (think I have a spare switch somewhere). Speedo has to be set up (found a measured mile locally. Must figure out how to keep that cable in position
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In trimmers now, not finished by any stretch of the imagination, but should be enough to be at Stoneleigh (work ongoing)
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How do you guys fit your headlight rims, mine are very loose on, so I took them off in case I lose them? I can;t fit the covers until I get my stainless trims through, taking an awful long time,
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Yeah they are loose.....I used some bits of rubber seal and felt tape to hold them in position I think.
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Ta Sir P
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Do you mean the chrome rims around the lens or the bezels ??
The chrome ring that came with the light unit had a little screw to secure it.
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Yes, the chrome rims with the lights. There are screw points but once in position you can't get to them
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You have to take the light assembly out from underneath the wheel arch and then you can put the chrome ring on with the screw, then put the whole unit back in.
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Yeah but mine was still loose with the screw in it....you could tilt it....hence a blue peter fix
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Thanks guys, will have to wait until I get car back from trimmers & have a look at it, not much time before Stoneleigh though as I have to sort out the passenger door first, cable keeps slipping off the pulley to latch & window not working. Have got another window switch & will have to rethink the pulley system
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I added a buildes right angle bracket to both of mine....they give extra lift and keep the cable more centralised.
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I also did that Sir P following your previous post. Drivers door works perfectly but will have to re look at the passenger one. May have to cut off the screw head to remove the pulley as it isn't travelling along the thread and put a new screw in. thought about putting a flat 'bracket' along the side of the pulley to hold the cable in position - or a large penny washer.
The lock jammed & had a hell of a job getting the trim off to get to the latch to release it & open the door, going to fix up some sort of emergency device in case that ever happens again
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Hi Ian I fixed penny washers on mine and they seem to work ok. Looking forward to seeing you at Stoneleigh. Hoping to go up early Sunday morning and staying Sunday night so I can go again Monday you take care buddy John James
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Good to hear from you John, hope you are feeling a lot better mate.Penny washers were my next choice but I also want to re position the pulley. We are going on Saturday & stopping 2 nights at the Premier Inn. Eat in the restaurant Sat evening & we have a BBQ on the Sunday evening.
Looking forward to seeing you again, just hope my car will be in a fit state to take, it is at the trimmers at the moment & there are a couple of jobs I will have to sort out first.
See you at Stoneleigh
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Hi guys,
A disappointing day today as I had booked my 250 in for a new hood, drove to Sevenoaks to be told they could not do it as the 250 body was too close to the 'hoop' that had to be prised out & they can't get to it.
I am sure that some of you 250 guys have had replacement hoods done after your build, especially Sir P. Where did you manage to get your's sorted & was it a good job. Really wanted to get the Sevenoaks company to do it as they use genuine Z3 hoods all in for £600.
I think Sir P said he took his to a company in Croydon.
On the plus side, we had a great drive with the roof down & consoled ourselves with a nice lunch at The White Hart, Brasted (passenger window stuck dow so checked it out when we got back home & the plug had come adrift from the switch - an easy repair thankfully.
By the way, I sent all the guff off to DVLA to re register my car & got the answer back within 13 days & V5 in 14 days. It arrived on the morning we left for Stoneleigh. I now have a BMW 2fifty kit apparently.
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Soft-tops in Croydon.
Contact Dee. He's done mine and Percy's with the new body on. No problem at all. And he makes his own hoods and they are superb quality, better than the original in my opinion.
My Black one was £500 fitted.
Sales@soft-tops.co.uk
Jez
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Thank you Jez, I will follow that one up
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Hi Ian I have been to Croydon and the guy there makes up his own hoods they are cut by a computer really nice guy hey also does them in different colours and if you want he can make a smaller window for the back. You know I said you had a bit more gap between your roof and your bulkhead I was having another look at mine and I'm not sure what sort of roof lining you have there's worth having a chat with him you take care John James
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Thanks John, gonna give him a call now.
Take care mate & get yourself well soon
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Thanks guys, have just booked in to 'Soft Tops' in Croydon. £100 cheaper too + altered rear window. Booked in for 2 Saturdays' time so looking forward to a new hood & a few hours wandering around Croydon - my old stamping ground in my yoof
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John James & Sir P had small ashtrays in their 250s, Where & what did you search for?
I tried all combinations & all I get is modern big ashtrays or big stand alone ones for the house. Very frustrating
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Cigarette cases mate
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Ta Sir P
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Hi Ian if you go to my build I have posted pictures of my ashtray and also where to get it and where to get the little flags hope this helps keep up the good work John James
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Thank you John, I ordered up a cigarette case as Sir P recommended, will see what it looks like (it was only £11 so if not suitable, Maureen can have it. Will look at the flags.
Been sorting out a fluid leak on my power steering system today, been a bit of a pain but hopefully have sorted it now, wasn't where I originally thought.
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Getting desperate now, can't get speedo, tacho or fuel gauge working.
Both speedo & tacho give a pulse when ignition is switched on but nothing after that. All indicator lights work.
Fuel gauge goes straight to full - & stays there. Have tried reversing the wires but still the same. Have fitted the resistor after they sent one to me (finally) & makes no difference.
I can't keep using the sat nav as a speedo, hard to see when the sun is on screen, and have to keep an eye on the mileage & guess what I am doing to the gallon - working on 25 to be on the safe side.
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Got new hood made by 'Soft Tops' in Croydon (Dee). Made it yesterday & fitted today.
On Jeremy's (Jez) advice I removed interior trim first as the frame had to be removed.
Had the modified rear window done too.
1st & 2nd pics are my tatty old hood
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Old hood with deeper rear window
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New hood fitted, took about 3 1/2 hours
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New hood with modified rear window.
Looks good in dark blue
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Have got the speedo & fuel gauge working at last - thank goodness. Still no tacho, can't find a wire in the area with a pulse so looks like will have to run a wire through, but that isn't too important at present.
Do any of you 250 owners find the exhaust grounds going over ramps? Went to a service station the other day & even crawling over the ramps, it was grounding.
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Do any of you 250 owners find the exhaust grounds going over ramps? Went to a service station the other day & even crawling over the ramps, it was grounding.
Talk to johnjames about the springs as his car looked very low at the back.
- tenpin
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John has since changed his rear springs to the same as I have fitted. I used DNAs supplied ones
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I got my springs from DNA too. My car sits very low, I have about 4-5" clearance underneath. I have 'clunked' the underside a couple of times going carefully over speed bumps, but not had exhaust catching anything.
Compared to Sir Percival's car mine seems a lot lower.
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Mine is more like your's Jez, I am assuming it is the exhaust as looking underneath, the exhaust is the lowest point
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Mine still catches on "extreme" speed bumps......presume it is the exhaust.
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Thanks guys, looks like it is a common problem
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Car packed & ready for Tatton Park, looking forward to the drive now that speedo & fuel gauge are working & got rid of that annoying rattle (apart from the M25 & M42 car parks).
Fingers crossed for decent weather :)
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Hi as you know I fitted rear Springs at the back. 30mm drop my car now looks more like sir p.
Measuring from the centre of the wheel to the top of the wheel arch outside is 380 mm thought you might like to know have not give you the measurement from the ground as it could differ by the size of the tyres. Enjoy driving with the roof down John James
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Here is a few pictures of the exhaust under my car I left the BMW cat on there and fitted a flexible pipe that goes to my tailpipes and since I have renewed the back Springs I have no trouble getting over speed bumps at Sainsbury's even with shopping in the boot and my 18 stone friend and a full tank of petrol enjoy.
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Thanks John, very helpful. Had a great 400+ mile round trip this weekend to Tatton Park & home with roof down, awesome.
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Hi as you know I fitted rear Springs at the back. 30mm drop my car now looks more like sir p.
Measuring from the centre of the wheel to the top of the wheel arch outside is 380 mm thought you might like to know have not give you the measurement from the ground as it could differ by the size of the tyres. Enjoy driving with the roof down John James
Wow! My car is very low then. My measurement from the centre of the rear wheel to the top of the wheel arch is only 330 mm. I just got under my car and measure the lowest point, which is just 95 mm from the ground. No wonder I am bottoming out on speed bumps. I think mine is too low. I would feel better with another 30 mm or so clearance.
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Mine is 360mm front & 340mm rear, Will check underneath clearance when I have old clothes on
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Jez. All councils should have had a letter from the DOT telling them that speed humps should be a maximum of 100mm. This doesn’t take into account the depth of the pot holes just before or just after the hump.
My little GTM needs its hydrolastic setting twice a year. I set the lowest point of the body (the venture under the seat) at 120mm. Visiting parts of Walsall is still impossible as the last time I visited the St Paul’s area I got stuck on a hump and had to be fitted off. Thank goodness the Furrari has push button suspension height adjustments.
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Just measured mine underneath, 80mm, no wonder it struggles over humps
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Measured the back of mine today (wheel centre, to wheel arch) and it's 390mm......and I still catch on big speed bumps.....or giant pot holes.
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I may have to refit my old springs, luckily I still have them
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Just had a letter for agreed value on the 250. A lot lower than I wanted and they quoted 'If you are unhappy with the valuation, we are willing to reassess upon receipt of a signed and dated independent valuation from a member of the Institute of Automotive Engineers and Assessors (www.iaea-online.org) or a valuation appraisal from www.classiccarvaluations.co.uk. & of course paying extra.
This was with Adrian Flux & as far as I can see, is the lowest valuation of us all. I know Sir P has £45000 & Jez has £80000 without the kerfufle of getting an independent valuation. My requested value was between those two.
Any ideas where I can go from here?
I think I will go back to Footman James next year.
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Tenpin or myself could do an independant valuation for you 8)
MADMAN
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Would appreciate that Steve, I was looking in the region of £70000, but stand to be corrected.
What details would you need & do you need to see it? I know you saw it at Stoneleigh but may need to inspect it further.
Thank you for the offer
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Hi Ian Steve lives up north and Tenpin lives at Tunbridge Wells which is a bit nearer or is there any car clubs that you belong to what about your friend who builds Ford gt40 does he know of anybody it might be worth asking.
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Hi John, thanks for that, I will have to ask him. It states a member of the Institute of Automotive Engineers and Assessors, I am a member of the Institute of the Motor Industry but don't think that counts (mind you, I let that expire years ago). I think the word 'assessors' is quite important.
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Have put my old Z3 rear suspension springs back on, now the measurement from centre of hub to wheel arch is 15 1/2 " and clearance underneath is 5 1/4". Question is - do I do the fronts as well???
OS DNA springs fitted
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Z3 springs refitted OS
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NS DNA springs
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NS Z3 springs back
Looks better with lower springs but I don't think I can afford to replace the exhaust too often
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Have any of you 250 guys had stainless or alloy headlight 'bubble' trims made up, & if so - where? I had a guy going to make some up for me over a year ago & still not done them, I have now told him not to bother.
This year I have run the car without any at all, but needs then to finish it off.
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I’ve just noticed the height of the trolly jack. Very nice.
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Bought it on line from Screwfix in June on special offer £125.99. Very heavy but as you say, low profile & lifts up pretty high too. Really pleased with it. My old one was probably 20 years old & not the best performance + it didn't lift high enough.
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New stainless Lower screen trim fitted supplied by Group Harrington, Vietnam.
Easier done with an extra pair of hands to ine up properly
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New headlight trims fitted supplied by Group Harrington, Vietnam
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New stainless grille surround fitted supplied by Group Harrington, Vietnam
This was a real pain to fit as it is very slightly too large & needs 'dressing'. If you are fitting before paint work the aperture in the body can easily be reshaped but you can damage your paint if you are not careful once painted.
All the stainless looks 100% better though
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Taking shape now.
In at the Trimmers at present for about 4 weeks having the seats sorted.
I bought a second set of Z3 seats & removed to tops of the rear frame & welded in a flatter shape to fit the original base, keeping the electric movement still working. Will have it recovered in the original 250 style, will let you know how it turns out. Hope it will be comfortable & look great as it wasn't a cheap job by any means.
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Well done Ian - the stainless looks great! ;)
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Hi Ian, I too had fun and games fitting the grille surround but it is so worth it.I'm sorry I missed you at Stoneleigh I went over to the stand a couple of times, but your car is looking good. My car is off the road at the moment, after having fun last year I have started on the interior. I modified MGB seats and fitted them to the z3 seat bases and I'm having fun fitted the dash! One small problem is the wiring colours on the car are not the same as the wiring diagrams! Can you remember the colours for the ignition switch? Any hope it goes well with your seats.
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Hi buddy,
My grille still needs some tweaking but I think I will leave that for the present, maybe a winter project when I have some more time to play with it.
Thanks for the compliment, shame I missed you at Stoneleigh. Always good to chat with fellow 250 owners & get to know them. As you know mine was on the Italian Replica stand rather than the DNAOC stand, only because they have been my club for 23 odd years. I did wander over to the DNA stand a few times & had a chat with the guys.
Just hoping my seats will do the car justice, I have seen John James MGB seats & they look good. That would probably have been a far cheaper option + I could have had removable head rests. The way mine are being done they won't have that facility, but should look right. The original Z3 seats were a complete give-away.
Me & wiring don't get along so I had a mate sort out my electrics, he used some sort of meter to trace wires, so sorry, I'm not much help in that direction. All I can do is send you a diagram I have, hope that helps. Good luck & hope to meet up with you soon
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Thanks Jeremy ;)
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Hello Ian,
As a fellow DNA 250 owner I have read (from start to finish) this evening your build thread - really enjoyed reading it, let's just say it brought back a few memories.
My reason for getting in touch is to hopefully speak with you about the Group Harrington chrome parts that you've successfully sourced/fitted ? Mine are still the original DNA ones and they're starting to look tired & weather beaten.
I've attached a few pics of my car by way of an introduction - BTW these photos were taken almost 2 years ago now (Aug 17).
Note: I did try and message you directly but appears that even after first posting one + year ago I am still tagged as a 'newbie' !
Looking forward to chatting, cheers Law'
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Hi mate,
Have sent you a P.M. Hopefully it will get through to you. If not, let me know & I will send it on here
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Question for brown_sauce. That's a lovely car, and I really like the wheels you put on the car. Do you have the spec for the wheels you used, and how do they fit on the BMW hubs?
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I imported them from http://acww.com.au/html/n72spoke.html The guy was really helpful and the rims are good quality.
However it wasn't a straight forward fit as I had to switch out the rear Z3 hubs for Z4 ones and mill' down pair of E36/E46 solid rear discs to 272mm ?
Just remembered I made the following Youtube video of this subject: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzuJ4DA6wn8
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Some help please guys who have the 250, I have fitted the period mirror on the dash now - but when I removed the Z3 mirror, the door locks won't work with the key fob. I reconnected the wires & they work. I stripped out the old mirror to remove the wiring & board. (Think I will have to cut & resolder the wires to strip them out from the mirror assembly). My question is, where did any of you re-house the board? - Under the top inner windscreen trim???
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Sorry mate, I have kept the original mirror because I was afraid a period one might suffer from scuttle shake vibrations.
P
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Me too.
Jez
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I fitted the period one & is surprisingly stable - but very small. A bit too low, not bad with hood down but took some getting used to, works with the hood up but a little too low. I have ordered a chrome suction mirror with 'dipping' facility to mount on the top of the screen, will see how that pans out.
Everything appears to work without the Z3 one except for the central locking.
Managed to dismantle the old one but can't get the wires out with the connection blocks on (too big) hence may have to cut & solder wires.
Mirror comes off very easy, just take off caps & disconnect the plugs, then twist mirror anticlockwise & comes of like a light bulb would.
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how about the period one with the chrome rod from top of screen to bottom? you could slide it up or down
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That looks very MGB. Saw one at a show the other day & thought about it, but found the one I was talking about earlier on Ebay & thought I will give it a try, should arrive today or tomorrow. It also has the advantage of the dipping ability.
We'll see how it pans out. I like the look of the one I have in now, but is very small.
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Hi. I saw you went to tattoo park to drive it. Are you based in Manchester? I’m building one now but would love to see yours
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Hiya, I believe firefife is down south not in Manchester, you can still call in and see mine J32 M62