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Topics - Jez

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2fifty Chat / Rip off on eBay
« on: June 24, 2021, 08:11:47 AM »
Just come across this on eBay. The guy is claiming the car is a factory build DNA 250, but requires painting and interior as it is in 'gel coat' Ferrari red.

We all know that original DNA kits were never gel coat colour finished, and looking at the photos this is a really shoddy build. What a shyster.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144077119042?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Dae7aefe847234a0aa98830ad8a5f0769%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D144077119042%26itm%3D144077119042%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A680e86f7-d4ba-11eb-bc5c-0eb1eada0404%7Cparentrq%3A3cd5846817a0a4d496d6f3ecffee01ce%7Ciid%3A1


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2fifty Chat / Win a DNA 2Fifty California
« on: March 08, 2021, 03:48:41 PM »
DON'T MISS YOUR CHANCE TO WIN SOMETHING AMAZING!!!

I have decided to raffle my DNA 250 California and hopefully raise £20,000 for Martin House Children's Hospice.

This is a very rare opportunity to win a superb 1960s style classic sports car, ready for the end of lockdown, and the best summer you could imagine! Tickets only £5 each.
If all tickets are sold, £20k will be donated to Martin House Children's Hospice. As the DNA kits are no longer available this is a great way to take a chance on getting one for only a fiver, and raising funds for a good cause. Good luck!
Jez

https://raffall.com/206563/enter-raffle-to-win-a-dna-250-callifornia-sports-car-hosted-by-jeremy-hinchley

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Build Threads / Power window problem
« on: May 21, 2020, 06:14:24 PM »
Hi Guys, I need some help. I've been enjoying this nice weather recently and managed to get out in my 250 quite a bit. Yesterday something odd happened.
Driver window refused to power down, but passenger window worked fine. I'd read somewhere that if you ever lose battery power (flat battery) then you will have to re-program the power windows. It involves pressing the lever to move the window down to the bottom, releasing the lever, then pressing the lever again (same direction) and holding it down for 10 seconds before releasing it. This is repeated on both windows. For good luck I did the same process for both the up and down positions. This is supposed to set the memory for where the window should stop in each direction.

So yesterday I disconnected my battery for 10 minutes, then reconnected it. Then I tried to lower the driver window. Nothing. So I tried to lower the passenger window. This worked, so I followed the procedure to set the memory.
Repeated tests of the passenger window - it worked fine 20 times.
Then I tried the driver window again. Nothing. Won't budge. Stuck in the up position.  However you can hear something clicking below the passenger side dashboard (which is the same noise you hear on the other window that works fine) Tried again several times, and after about 7 or 8 attempts it went down, so I followed the procedure again to set this one. Then I tested it, and twenty times it worked like a dream, up, down, up down, more times than a tart's knickers.

Great!! Solved it.

Except today we set off for a drive and the passenger side stopped working, but the driver side worked fine.

I've tried disconnecting the battery again, and was about to reset the windows again, but the driver window worked so I was able to reset it, but the passenger side is stuck down, and no matter what I do it won't go up.

Any clever electronic types out there who might know where to look?   :(

Jez

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2fifty Chat / Electric window problems
« on: August 17, 2019, 08:55:08 AM »
After 16  months of use without any problems I have recently had intermittent problems with my electric windows. First the passenger side started to be temperamental, and occasionally the window would not lower (or raise) but after a few attempts with the lever it eventually did. One day it just stayed down and that was that. So off with the door cards and after playing around with the switch and the DNA mechanism, I thought that I had adjusted the hard stops incorrectly, so I re-adjusted them to make sure that the BMW switch was actually being pushed all the way. Re-assembled everything and put the door card back on, and bingo! All working again.

That was about 2 months ago. The passenger side is still working fine, but now the driver side has started the same fun and games. Once again I've stripped off the door card and examined/checked the switch mechanism. It was adjusted perfectly. However, playing around with the window just using my fingers on the BMW switch (and not the mechanism) there is still an intermittent fault. Window works, then it doesn't. After a few presses, maybe 6 or 7, it works again, then after another few goes it stops working. I've checked all the wiring and it is all good. There are no issues with that. It is interesting that when it is not working, when you press the switch, there is no noise coming from the motor - like its not getting any power at all. Then when it does work, you can here a faint click just before the window raises or lowers.

I've tried a replacement (known good) switch and still the problem is there. Now wondering if the problem could be a relay (Web search has not been very fruitful, but found some references to a 'comfort relay' whatever that is) or even worse the window motor itself. I am not sure how the hell I would get the regulator and motor out now that the DNA door skins are bonded to the doors. You have to remove the glass up through the door, and to do that you need to remove the seals on the top edge, which are now covered.

I don't think it is related (but who knows with electrickery) but my ETB tachometer has also gone bananas. Around the same time as I had the window issue I fired her up one day, and the tacho went right round the dial to max. I restarted the engine hoping it would reset, but it didn't. Its very random, and when driving it now works in the opposite way to expected, in that as the revs increase, the needle goes down, and as the revs drop, it goes up. When you switch off, it just stays wherever it was. Had the battery off for 12 hours in the hope that everything would reset, but no, it's still all playing up.
I have always had an issue with this tacho, in that when it was working, it would show the correct rpm, but if you took your foot off the gas the needle would just dive back to zero, and then pick up again as you apply the juice. As it's such a ball ache to remove the dash to remove the dash to get this out, I have just put up with that little 'feature'.  Now I'm wondering if it has been faulty all along and finally gone pop.

Any ideas?
 

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Hi all,

If anybody is interested there's a classic car show in June which has a good representation of kits and replicas.

http://www.classicshows.org/fathers-day-motor-show-castle-howard-sun-17-june-2018/

I just booked myself in - the first 100 get in for free (car plus two) and then advanced bookings will be £4.50 after that.

Jez

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Build Threads / Jeremy's 2Fifty Cal story begins....
« on: December 20, 2016, 05:28:14 PM »
Hi all, as previously mentioned I am embarking on the build of a 2Fifty California, which I ordered back in September. My donor is a Y reg 2001 2.2L Z3, with a good history and 81,000 miles on the clock, and a really crappy hood that will get replaced anyway.
After finding my donor I have spent the last month getting a few bits and bobs sorted before the strip down. I started the strip down 2 weeks ago, and this weekend the Z3 was ready for the build to start.
I collected my kit from Brian yesterday, so now the real fun begins! It's the best Christmas present ever!!!

Here's a few photos of the donor. I'll follow up with some of the stripped car ready for the kit.


Jeremy

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