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2fifty Chat / Re: Buying the right Z3.
« on: November 30, 2018, 08:21:38 PM »
These look really great.....but I wouldn't have a clue how to work out which ones would fit.
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Hi Graham 2, I agree with most of what the other guys are advised. I went for a 1999 2.8 with ac ,I had the vehicle painted in a blue which is close to the original BMW colour. Check the vehicle service history for a guide to it's general condition.I was lucky enough to find a local car with only a few prior owners and I knocked down the price because of a few small dents and scratch's. I have replaced the lower front arms, fitted adjustable front struts, and adjustable rear springs along with new discs and callipers. I had the vehicle checked out by a BMW specialist and serviced before I started the build but I think I should have replaced the clutch as well.The main difference with my build is I have fitted knock on wire wheels,a bit expensive but I think worth it. I have also fitted steel bumpers again not cheap but they finish the vehicle off. Progress has been a bit slow on my build mainly because I keep driving it! But it's off the road now to do the interior and the electrics which I have been putting off. If you want a chat or to poke around my car I live on the edge of the New Forest near Southampton.
The wiring but it turned out easy, I had a sparky do it
The later 3.0 cars are painted black under the bonnet so can be painted any colour.
Go for aircon if possible.
Try and find one that has the polished alloy windscreen surround, looks much better than the DNA version.
Don't bother with 4 pots. I have a 2.2 and a 2.8 and struggle to notice any difference in performance. Would suggest a 2.8/3.0
as first choice.
Run the car for at least a month and put it through an MOT before starting to chop it up.
I don’t know the layout of the Z3, so excuse me if I’m talking a lot of round things, but I suppose this can apply to many other cars as well.
In the old days the starter solenoid was separate to the starter motor, these days the solenoid and the starter are one item. If you have a flat battery and can get at the main feed from the battery to the starter sol you can charge the battery that way. An alternative is to remove the main output lead from the alternator and charge through that, but that will depend on the car’s electrical system. ( starter feed is safer)
My central locking failed for no reason so there was no way to get into the car. I had to remove the rear window and even then the car could not be opened from the inside until the key was in the ignition.
I managed to get the window back in but it had weakened the stitching. I have it booked in for a new roof next week.
Expensive mistake.
I take it that Sir Percy's car was unlocked, if it was locked you wouldn't have been able to get into the car to open the bonnet. As your rear window does not have a zip it would have been a VERY expensive mistake. Probably cheaper to smash the driver's window.
Someone on the madabout forum has worked a way to wire a hidden switch to the driver's window allowing you to lower the window in case the cars locking fails.