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Author Topic: Advice on mixing paint  (Read 274 times)
bond007
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« on: July 29, 2010, 10:25:34 AM »

Hi, I was hoping someone could help "Madman  Wink"

Wanted to know what ratio to mix paint for respraying and how exactly to do it?

Bought a spraying kit so please can someone help

will need to know Process steps and what i will need

What i have so far is

Compressor
spray guns
Extractor fan

Thats it

PLEASE HELP  Cry
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dangerrous
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If it don't fit cut it bash it weld it


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« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2010, 04:15:24 PM »

Your enemies are dust and moisture, make sure the spary booth (garage) is as clean and free from loose dust as possible, the extraction system needs to be as large as possible to minimise rapid air movement. try not to spray on a wet day, unless you have driers in the workshop, the humidity can affect paint finish.
 What paint are you planning to use? the paint suppliers will give you mixing ratios and application methods. My local automotive paint stockist has enough acrylic for me not to worry.
 If they're a good paint supplier then look to buy the best you can afford, ICI, tend to be a favourite, own brands tend to give an initial good finish but can fade after time.
 For best results get a hvlp gravity fed gun with the recommended needle size for the type of paint you're using, remember you're playing around with Isocyanide, this is a dangerous compound, correct resporators are a must.
 Typical application of paint is:- dust, wait, wet, wait, heavy dust, laquer dust, laquer heavy dust (just enough to see a smooth shine on finish) - several layers, walk away.
D

Your local large independent paint shop may be kind enough to give you some tips aswell
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Nothing's too much work :-)
beemaman
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if in doubt leave it out


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« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2010, 09:39:03 AM »

hi buddy how did you get on with paint etc.as you may know i own a bmw bodystyling bodyshop and i paint cars everyday,we are waterbased set up but also use solvent basecoats and 2 pack paints,have you run car outside in hot weaher to pop any resin out of fiberglass,first off if you are going to have a go at it yourselve then you need to know a few things,first off make sure prep is good as the top coat is not gonna cover bad prepping,also as discussed you need a good clean place to do it,also paint it when warm (not too warm) and if poss after a wet day so the dust outside settles,also dampen the floor slightly to reduce dust,make sure car is pre cleaned off well and theres no solicone marks,blow off any unwanted dust trying not to blow downwards onto floor,use a good tacky cloth and clean painting overalls etc,this can help reduce bits in paint,gun wise you will need either a 1.3 or 1.4 setup hvlp (we use sata and devilbiss base and laquer guns)and if you want a deep gloss finish we use base coat and laquer,but you may want to use a high solid 2-pack paint only needing 2-3 coats,(2 pack can fade thogh as sunshine affects colour)we use ici or standox or ppg but can be expensive so maybe try alan ward in cannock they have painted a few replicas in octorol and is quite cheap,but good paint.try not to go for a deep gloss on first coat but not too dry a the second coat wont flow over orange peel first coat,the second coat should go on wet but just to the point of not being too wet,this will the flow out within 10 mins or so to a good gloss.without any runs etc,i asume you will mop amd polish car so you may be able to get out any runs or bits you may get.using a slow hardener and thinner will give you more working time around car so that it wont get dry patches,hope this may help and hope i have not missed too much lol just back from holiday,bit jet lagged,i myself am building a 430 dna but with a twist,going to be a few more months yet though,if ou need any help etc you can contact me on 0121 553 5550 wayne beemabuild hope this can be of use and may get you sorted...................
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beemaman
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if in doubt leave it out


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« Reply #3 on: July 31, 2010, 09:48:59 AM »

also you will require a good size place using a good ventilated fan and a good size compressor but we would reccomend a air fed mask but you will need a large capacity compressor to run both mask and gun to sustain a good pressur of around 2 bar at gun cap.all these gun settings depend on paint used and gun used(these are guidelines) personly if your not a capable painter there are bodyshops that will do self preps for you at around £250 300 and it will be done in the correct way and manner,these are harmfull paints that are used and can stick to your lungs and other stuff lying around etc.so way up the odds and see if spending a few extra pounds may be the way to go,as with the other advise posted on here they are correct,painting is a harmfull but specialized job and can go wrong,even for us professonals (were only human) lol hope it all goes to plan and get some finished photos on here .............
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Sylvester1994
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British by Birth... Welsh by the grace of God!


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« Reply #4 on: August 01, 2010, 11:07:03 AM »

I painted my Land Rover with a roller!!!
Better do a better job on the 430 I will buy when I have enough money. I did spray my mums Ford Escort XR3i, but that was written off a couple of weeks ago. I used cellulose 50/50 with thinners, 4 coats over 2 coats of grey HB primer. It was even Rosso Red!
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Longing for the day when I can afford a DNA!!!
Until then...
1970 Land Rover S2a 3.9 V8 "Monty"
2002 Aprillia RS50 "Rodney"
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