Author Topic: Russell's 2fifty build  (Read 1039 times)

firefife

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Re: Russell's 2fifty build
« Reply #15 on: November 21, 2019, 10:14:18 AM »
Argy, this is the bracket that the wiper motor bolts on to
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firefife

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Re: Russell's 2fifty build
« Reply #16 on: November 21, 2019, 10:16:48 AM »
And this is with the motor fitted in position, hope this helps
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argy

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Re: Russell's 2fifty build
« Reply #17 on: November 21, 2019, 02:41:08 PM »
Thanks again for this, it's a lot clearer picture.

I've built a bracket this afternoon, can you tell me if the motor mounting holes are M6 tapped or M6 clear to take a nut and bolt?

I've built the side bar from 5mm mild steel and the cross bar / curved section from 3mm stainless. I've also added an additional fixing at the other end of the curved section to the engine bay bulkhead. Hopefully that wil do the trick.

firefife

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Re: Russell's 2fifty build
« Reply #18 on: November 23, 2019, 09:58:14 AM »
From memory (& mine isn't so good these days) I believe they were tapped. I guess either way would do though.

Any additional fixing or mounting can only be good

Good luck buddy
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Mechman

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Re: Russell's 2fifty build
« Reply #19 on: December 30, 2019, 05:42:22 PM »
Hi Argy, from your pic it looks like yours is an early kit like mine. The door and boot lock systems were changed later on. I did make mine work in the end but it took months! For the door handle system I would talk to Grass bank Conversations and don't cut any holes in the doors until you do. The tribute door system is a bit basic but it works with less disruption of the BMW door system.
Best of luck with your build.
Regards  Mechman.

argy

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Re: Russell's 2fifty build
« Reply #20 on: January 01, 2020, 04:30:56 PM »
Hi Mechman,

Thanks for your comments but they've arrived a bit too late. Fortunately I have a working solution to the door opening issue. I've trawled other people's build diaries and with a bit of help from Grassbank Conversions I've got a good working solution.

The photo shows an earlier version of what I've done. Since then I've replaced the cable with something which is a bit more flexible and I've used aluminium ferrules from my local rope and cable merchants to crimp the cables rather than using the electrical crimp. The original cable was too rigid. Getting the balance between the desired action and applying tension when at rest was a challenge.

The original solution shown here works well except that the door locks won't open if there is any tension whatsoever on the door release mechanism. The problem only shows itself when you lock the doors with the central locking then try to open the doors again.

I bought 5m of 'soft' 1.0mm cable from ebay for a couple of quid (plenty left over if anyone needs some). This allowed me to have a tiny amount of slack before the door release mechanism moves and so avoids the lockout issue.

My kit didn't come with the oval shaped pieces which attach to the door release mechanism so I had to make my own. In the process I modded mine to allow me to loop the cable over an M6 bolt which is prevented from slipping off again with a penny washer and an M6 nyloc nut. This approach allows me to be able to easily remove the door handle if required.

What do your rear lights look like? I've got the MGB lights and am searching for a better solution similar to what the others got with their kits...

Russell

Mechman

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Re: Russell's 2fifty build
« Reply #21 on: January 05, 2020, 12:39:48 PM »
Hi Argy,  my rear lights are also MGB  , but with  the lower part supplied by DNA. You need early B lamp and the lower part was 3D printed
I think the company that  did it for DNA was 3D print shop Ltd,  try them on 01179390631 or 07811355327. I think his name is  Mark Bryant. Good luck with it. Regards Mechman.

Sir Percival

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Re: Russell's 2fifty build
« Reply #22 on: January 05, 2020, 12:52:27 PM »
Hi Mechman,

Thanks for your comments but they've arrived a bit too late. Fortunately I have a working solution to the door opening issue. I've trawled other people's build diaries and with a bit of help from Grassbank Conversions I've got a good working solution.

The photo shows an earlier version of what I've done. Since then I've replaced the cable with something which is a bit more flexible and I've used aluminium ferrules from my local rope and cable merchants to crimp the cables rather than using the electrical crimp. The original cable was too rigid. Getting the balance between the desired action and applying tension when at rest was a challenge.

The original solution shown here works well except that the door locks won't open if there is any tension whatsoever on the door release mechanism. The problem only shows itself when you lock the doors with the central locking then try to open the doors again.

I bought 5m of 'soft' 1.0mm cable from ebay for a couple of quid (plenty left over if anyone needs some). This allowed me to have a tiny amount of slack before the door release mechanism moves and so avoids the lockout issue.

My kit didn't come with the oval shaped pieces which attach to the door release mechanism so I had to make my own. In the process I modded mine to allow me to loop the cable over an M6 bolt which is prevented from slipping off again with a penny washer and an M6 nyloc nut. This approach allows me to be able to easily remove the door handle if required.

What do your rear lights look like? I've got the MGB lights and am searching for a better solution similar to what the others got with their kits...

Russell

Smart job on the door latch Argy, very similar to how I did mine.

Using the builders angle bracket helped by giving the extra leverage, and they have worked great from when I fitted them.

Mine not as smart as yours though, nice one.
If Airfix plastic model planes are made exactly to scale, why don't they fly?

Sir Percival

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Re: Russell's 2fifty build
« Reply #23 on: January 05, 2020, 12:57:58 PM »
Hi Argy,  my rear lights are also MGB  , but with  the lower part supplied by DNA. You need early B lamp and the lower part was 3D printed
I think the company that  did it for DNA was 3D print shop Ltd,  try them on 01179390631 or 07811355327. I think his name is  Mark Bryant. Good luck with it. Regards Mechman.

This is very useful....A smashed back light has to be a worry when you don't know where to get a new lens cover...I will "file" this in case a Granny attacks the rear of my car in a Fiat 500  ;)
If Airfix plastic model planes are made exactly to scale, why don't they fly?

argy

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Re: Russell's 2fifty build
« Reply #24 on: January 05, 2020, 10:04:03 PM »
Thanks to both of you for the feedback. I'll be following up on the leads

Russell

argy

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Re: Russell's 2fifty build
« Reply #25 on: January 07, 2020, 03:34:26 PM »
For the sake of completeness, this is what my passenger side door handle mechanism ended up looking like.


argy

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Oops, where can I get a replacement headlamp lens / cover ?
« Reply #26 on: January 09, 2020, 12:30:18 PM »
As the subject says, my driver's side lens had a small accident with an angle grinder. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?

It's beyond polishing...

Russell

argy

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Re: Russell's 2fifty build
« Reply #27 on: January 09, 2020, 06:55:41 PM »
Got that wrong, thankfully

I managed to polish it out, phew!
:-)

 

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