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Author Topic: V8 DNA 4thirty  (Read 22741 times)
dangerrous
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« Reply #120 on: June 23, 2010, 08:58:18 PM »

Due to the lack of space I'll be using Mr2 struts, but these will be adjustable from GAZ who are just down the road from me. They manufacture their products in house, the Tec Dir said they could produce anything I require. COOL!
D
« Last Edit: June 23, 2010, 09:01:04 PM by dangerrous » Logged

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BLACKonBLACK430
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« Reply #121 on: June 23, 2010, 09:12:25 PM »

Quote from: dangerrous
My main problem was to overcome the wheel hitting the two top arms, I've had to reduce the hub height twice!
 To keep the hub mounts correct I fabricated two more jigs before I could even start to think about welding it together.
 The hub steering arm was in the wrong place So with the aid of another jig it's gone from the top back to the bottom front, this is welded and bolted in place.
 The nickle rods have been a pleasure to work with and I've completed several strength tests on discarded bits of the wheel hub, I was satisfied with the outcome.




Im having a hard time visualizing what exactly it is you did to the hub. Was portion of the hub cut off and rewelded into a higher position in order to clear the top arms?
« Last Edit: June 23, 2010, 09:20:59 PM by BLACKonBLACK430 » Logged
dangerrous
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« Reply #122 on: June 24, 2010, 08:53:46 PM »

Original hub on page 7, new cut and shut hub page 9.
D
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BLACKonBLACK430
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« Reply #123 on: June 25, 2010, 02:53:51 AM »

ahhhhhhhhh i totally get it now. very interesting, i'm really looking forward to many videos!! Smiley
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dangerrous
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« Reply #124 on: August 14, 2010, 10:42:20 AM »

Been away from the car for a while, I've been searching for an estate to replace my van, 6 weeks later I've bought an Audi A6 2.4se avant. It's an old one with high mileage but cheap.
 I've just carried out a FULL service (nearly three weeks work) new sump, rocker and front flange gaskets, new cam and crank oil seals, new belts, new roller/idlers, plugs and fluids. Plus a few other bits.
 The elsawin manual has proved invaluable, but there's a small hitch, when you carry out this type of work I always disonnect the battery; the manual and Audi forum informs me that I need to do electronic resets, so I've purchased Vag-com leads and @*@@? software. The advantage of this is that I can now diagnose, reset fault codes and set parameters to my preference including the engine in the MR2.
Bonus!
D
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powerhungry
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« Reply #125 on: August 31, 2010, 12:05:58 PM »

wow think i might follow in your footsteps. you could be the ferrari 430 killer if you could get more poweerrrr comming outa that engine!!!! keep us all up to date with your engine
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Funexec
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« Reply #126 on: September 05, 2010, 05:37:48 PM »

Wow, I coulda had a V8?!  Wink

What is the weight differential of a v8  vs. a 1zz, 2zz, v6?  Is it gonna change the drivability much?  (ie. front/rear balance)

With such a light car, what is a good HP target range for a screamer that isn't overkill as far as hookin up the tires?  I know at some point, too much hp makes a car hard to drive.  Where is that point for an MR2 spyder DNA 430?

Would love if someone could give an overview of the various options for more performance.
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Sylvester1994
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« Reply #127 on: September 05, 2010, 08:02:40 PM »

Well, the obvious option is to tune the standerd vvti engine, but there is a limit. Safely, you should be expecting no more then about 185-190bhp. The easiest engine swaps are the 3vz-fe 3.0 V6 from the  1992-1993 Toyota Camry. This comes with 150bhp as standerd, but can be easily tuned to produce 180bhp. The other logical swap would be the 1mz-fe 3.0 V6 from various Toyotas and Lexus' again with 180 odd bhp. The vvti model was into the 190's, and Toyota offered a supercharger upto 242bhp, but you can extract upto 270bhp from them. Both V6's require a mk2 MR2 'box and modified linkages and serious engine bay work. You can follow dangerrous and fit an Audi 4.2 V8, but it's complex. Both these V6's are transverse still, so make sense.
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DoveUS
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« Reply #128 on: September 05, 2010, 08:22:27 PM »

I just picked up a 7k mile MR2 so the engine is virtually new and worth keeping. What cost then to supercharge and where best to do so? What power without sacrificing reliability?

DoveUS
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creative_exotics
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« Reply #129 on: September 06, 2010, 01:20:03 AM »

I just picked up a 7k mile MR2 so the engine is virtually new and worth keeping. What cost then to supercharge and where best to do so? What power without sacrificing reliability?

DoveUS

  Google for supercharge mr2 spyder , tons of info will come up.
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marti123
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« Reply #130 on: September 06, 2010, 05:32:31 PM »

The mr2 mk3 Can be tuned much higher than 200 bhp!....

 This kit will give you 350 bhp.  http://www.turbo-kits.com/mr2_s_turbo_kits.html

 This kit gives you 240 bhp.      http://www.silverstoneperformance.co.uk/

I have seen on the net some where with 400 bhp!... The real car has'nt got much more?
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paulm
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« Reply #131 on: September 06, 2010, 07:42:18 PM »

I'd be careful going for a kit like that (350hp)t, theres been no end of problems with guys trying to get those figures on MR2roc, wth water seals oil seals and gearboxs blowing.
A low pressure turbo or supercharger set up is best way to go if you want to keep the 1zz, for me preferably the supercharger, then either the V6 or V8 option. I'll be selling my V8 next year to move onto a zonda kit
« Last Edit: September 07, 2010, 08:48:46 AM by paulm » Logged
Sylvester1994
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« Reply #132 on: September 06, 2010, 09:17:01 PM »

The mr2 mk3 Can be tuned much higher than 200 bhp!....
Notice I said SAFELY!!!! The engine will have no end to problems at that power! It just wasn't built to cope with it. The whole ethos of the MR-2 is not to be fast but to handle beautifully.
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DNA AUTOMOTIVE
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« Reply #133 on: September 06, 2010, 09:45:14 PM »

the 3 cars in this youtube clip were all running rotrex superchargers and all 3 well over 200bhp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbqMxF-BzIE&feature=related
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Sylvester1994
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« Reply #134 on: September 07, 2010, 06:15:53 PM »

200bhp where? Flywheel or wheels. It makes a massive difference. I wouldn't try adding anymore then 100bhp to an engine, so 240bhp at the wheels would be my limit. My Rover V8 started at 180bhp. It now has 242bhp at the flywheel. That is as much as it is built to cope with. Superchargers get very very hot under bonnets, so extra cooling would be needed, plus the cost of the supercharger and the faff of re-arranging the pipework. Not worth it imho. The car would be good enough as is.
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