Author Topic: Furrari build  (Read 146319 times)

CdRsKuLL

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Re: Furrari build
« Reply #735 on: March 26, 2018, 09:15:29 PM »
What you building fella? I've got two arduinos in my murci.

:)
The fat one..

Furrari

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Re: Furrari build
« Reply #736 on: March 27, 2018, 08:46:35 AM »
CdRsCull
What am I building.  To recap.  This was all part of my Grand Vision. 
The current project is to put the switches to control the way the auxiliary lights, indicators and the exhaust works. ( more on this as things progress). The switches are located in the top part of the centre consol/arm rest.  The panel is with Wicked Coatings in Poole for carbon dipping in the same finish as the rest of the CF.  The panel has three rocker switches with 6 LEDs and there is an LCD, four line display showing their status.  ( all of this is for the best reason there is, because I can.)

The the LCD is controlled by one Arduino Nano and two potentiometers ( one for brilliance, one for contrast).  The third controls the brilliance of the LEDs to give a constant level regardless of how many are lit.  Although there are enough I/O on one Nano to do both jobs using just one, having the LCD uses up the particular pins I need for controlling the LEDs.

I'v had it all working on a breadboard but this means a lot of wire, so I’m having a go at a PCB.  Never done one before so it’s a bit of a steep learning curve.

As all this was part of the Grand Vision the wiring is in from the centre consol to the front of the car but I’m going to have a go at wireless switching but I won’t be showing this unless it’s successful.
« Last Edit: March 27, 2018, 11:31:45 AM by Furrari »
Not all problems can be solved with gaffer tape.  For those there is WD40.
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Furrari

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Re: Furrari build
« Reply #737 on: March 27, 2018, 11:19:42 AM »
So onto the drilling.

There are about 80 holes that need drilling.  Each one is .5 to .6 mm diameter and has to be very accurate.

A standard drill chuck can’t hold a drill bit of this size in place accurately, and the bits are very fragile; so how do we drill them.

I have my cute little, desk top pillar drill and a pneumatic die grinder.  The grinder won’t fit the stand so I printed an adaptor to hold it in place.  The next problem is that the grinder has a 6mm collet, not a chuck.  I got a model makers chuck off Amazon. This has a 6mm spindle so it will fit the collet at one end and hold the dill bit at the other.  I’ve put a DTI on the drill and the run out is about .05mm so that should be OK.
« Last Edit: March 27, 2018, 04:01:52 PM by Furrari »
Not all problems can be solved with gaffer tape.  For those there is WD40.
Not even gaffer tape can fix stupid, but it can mask the sound.

If you can’t buy it or steal it you have to make it.

Furrari

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Re: Furrari build
« Reply #738 on: March 27, 2018, 04:01:09 PM »
That method wasn’t too accurate.  Although rotating the drill by hand gave minimal runout using the mini pillar drill was not successful as pulling the handle caused about .5mm to 1mm flex in the position on the drill bit.  I presume because of working against the return spring.

I’ve ordered a push drill ( also known as an Archimedes drill or a jewellers drill) off Amazon that should be here tomorrow and we’ll try again. ( I did say all this lot was a steep learning curve.)

Longer term, if all the other aspects of the job go well I’ll look at constructing a goal post, frame thing to stop the top of the pillar drill moving.

Another mistake was to ink in the solder pads before drilling.  This should be done afterwards to put the hole in the centre of the pad.

Another episode of how not to drill a hole tomorrow or the day after.
Not all problems can be solved with gaffer tape.  For those there is WD40.
Not even gaffer tape can fix stupid, but it can mask the sound.

If you can’t buy it or steal it you have to make it.

Furrari

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Re: Furrari build
« Reply #739 on: March 30, 2018, 09:36:21 AM »
Well using a push drill hasn’t proved 100% successful either.  With my eyesight for very close work (I’m using the Beta release of the Mk1 eyeball) it’s dificult to get the centre of the holes within a gnats thingies.  These, almost invisible tolerances adding up to, I would say .25mm.  Not a lot but when the holes are .7mm and .9 mm dia it’s an appreciable amount.  It’s not a problem for resistor mounting holes but for two rows of 15 holes it is.

Originally I reduced the size of the design to fit across a piece of board.  This meant using a .05” pitch instead of a .1” pitch on some items.  So it’s back to the drawing board. (Well computer).

I’ve redrawn the circuit, this time sticking with the .1” pitch for the holes.  This will allow me to use a bit of Vero board as a template.

My proper Toner Transfere paper has arrived as well so it’s off to get a new photocopy.

Oh, the other problem with a push drill and so many holes is that I have a blister.  With my avoidance of physical work this is very unusual.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2018, 09:38:12 AM by Furrari »
Not all problems can be solved with gaffer tape.  For those there is WD40.
Not even gaffer tape can fix stupid, but it can mask the sound.

If you can’t buy it or steal it you have to make it.

Furrari

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Re: Furrari build
« Reply #740 on: April 05, 2018, 06:52:00 PM »
No pictures, 'cos there’s not a lot to see.

I’ve used the toner reansfere paper and transferred the circuit design to the copper clad board.  This paper works a lot better than just gloss paper.  Very good.

I’ve drilled all the holes and etched the board, tomorrow I’ll start soldering.  Although I could solder the bits straight to the board but as this is my first attempt at a PCB I think I’ll mount them on headers so I can plug the Arduinos in.  That way if I’ve got it wrong it won’t scrap them.
Not all problems can be solved with gaffer tape.  For those there is WD40.
Not even gaffer tape can fix stupid, but it can mask the sound.

If you can’t buy it or steal it you have to make it.

Furrari

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Re: Furrari build
« Reply #741 on: April 16, 2018, 12:40:32 PM »
The switch panel is back from being dipped, the lacquer removed from where the display and switches fit.   Looks very nice ( better than the picture.)

I’m struggling to find potentiometer knobs I like so I suppose I’ll have to make my own.
I found some Moog knobs that I like but they are too big a dia but I think this is the patern I think I like.

The California badge is the same as the one on the steering wheel.  Sets the rest of the panel off very well.
« Last Edit: April 16, 2018, 12:47:21 PM by Furrari »
Not all problems can be solved with gaffer tape.  For those there is WD40.
Not even gaffer tape can fix stupid, but it can mask the sound.

If you can’t buy it or steal it you have to make it.

CdRsKuLL

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Re: Furrari build
« Reply #742 on: April 18, 2018, 12:14:08 PM »
looking good.. did I see a 007 ejector seat option to pin5 ?

if (seatButtonState == HIGH) {
    // Activate ejector seat:
    digitalWrite(seatPin, HIGH);
    // Boooom Passanger goes bye bye
}

All good stuff, the carbon dip looks really good. Did you print in PLA or ABS? Just wondering if any temperatures will affect it that's all.

b.t.w if you need anything bigger printing I have a 300x300 bed on my JGAurora A5.

Steve
« Last Edit: April 18, 2018, 12:17:40 PM by CdRsKuLL »
The fat one..

FBP3rd

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Re: Furrari build
« Reply #743 on: April 18, 2018, 12:43:49 PM »
Cheers Steve,nice one !

Furrari

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Re: Furrari build
« Reply #744 on: April 18, 2018, 05:49:49 PM »
Steve.

Thank you for that code snippet (I can’t get used to calling them sketches).  I will archive it for later.

One problem is that JB had his eject button in the gear lever.  If you press the top of my gear lever the engine stops.

I tend to print in PLA as I’ve had so many problems with ABS.  If I want a bit more strength I increase perimeter layers to 5 and then anneal the print in the oven at 95C for about an hour.  This increases the strength by 40% and the stiffness by 25%,  it also increases its temperature resistance.
« Last Edit: April 18, 2018, 07:30:35 PM by Furrari »
Not all problems can be solved with gaffer tape.  For those there is WD40.
Not even gaffer tape can fix stupid, but it can mask the sound.

If you can’t buy it or steal it you have to make it.

Furrari

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Re: Furrari build
« Reply #745 on: April 23, 2018, 12:53:26 PM »
I’ve had the sticker for the commissioning plate and the aluminium plate to sit it on for some time.  When I tried to fit the plate I realised that the area I was trying to fit it on was not flat, nor a simple curve but was domed.  Strange, cos when I printed it last year it was flat, obviously it conformed to the shape of the engine cover when I bonded it on.  So I just stuck it on.

The indistinct bit in the middle is a horsey thing.  In the flesh it’s a lot clearer than on the photo.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2018, 01:00:38 PM by Furrari »
Not all problems can be solved with gaffer tape.  For those there is WD40.
Not even gaffer tape can fix stupid, but it can mask the sound.

If you can’t buy it or steal it you have to make it.

Furrari

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Re: Furrari build
« Reply #746 on: April 26, 2018, 06:30:31 PM »
Continuing the finishing jobs on the engin cover.

The original idea was to print all the bits for the makeover and bond them to the Merc cover.  All the bits on the main cover were done apart from the horsey badge in the middle.  The printing was done with an aluminium filament that you were supposed to be able to polish to an bright aluminium finish.  Today I tried.  Even using 2000 grit and soap all I could get was a shiny gray finish. :-(

I didn’t want to paint it due to the complicated shape so over to plan B.    Gold leaf.    I have used guilding before but that was an a much less fiddly job.  The finished job is not 100% what I was hoping for.  I looks very bling from a couple of feet away but won’t stand scrutiny from close up.

With the show next weekend I’ll leave it for now, print some more horsey things off and have a practice.

You sure learn some new skills with this kit car thing, that’s the fun of it.
Not all problems can be solved with gaffer tape.  For those there is WD40.
Not even gaffer tape can fix stupid, but it can mask the sound.

If you can’t buy it or steal it you have to make it.

Furrari

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Re: Furrari build
« Reply #747 on: April 27, 2018, 11:21:10 AM »
Who said I don’t think of my wife?   I’ve just bought her a set of star drive, anti tamper keys so she can mend the vacuum cleaner.
Not all problems can be solved with gaffer tape.  For those there is WD40.
Not even gaffer tape can fix stupid, but it can mask the sound.

If you can’t buy it or steal it you have to make it.

Furrari

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Re: Furrari build
« Reply #748 on: May 20, 2018, 11:28:32 AM »
More work under the bonnet ( see also “ that didn’t work”).

A Ferrari has the areas around the engine clad in plastic covers. ( looks very good on the 430) but the engine bay of the SL has all the bits exposed.   Whilst the side and front covers are beyond my skill level I can make covers for the battery/heater area and the fuse box/brake reservoir/ wash bottle area.  So it’s back to the CAD ( cardboard aided design)  and ordered the ABS plastic sheet.

I’ve cut the ABS to shape and cut a hole where the heater grill is, bonded the two parts together with black baby poo, filled the cut out edge and sanded it back.

I consulted Alan Ward ( who are of course used to us strange lot) about the best paint to use on ABS and they made me up an aerosol of the correct satin black which I used to put two coats on the cover.

The other side is the mirror of the first, all I’ve got to do is figure how to hold it in place.

Just a picture of the finished cover.  Well I say finished, I’ve still got to edge it in a rubber extrusion to neaten the edge up.
« Last Edit: May 20, 2018, 11:38:27 AM by Furrari »
Not all problems can be solved with gaffer tape.  For those there is WD40.
Not even gaffer tape can fix stupid, but it can mask the sound.

If you can’t buy it or steal it you have to make it.

Furrari

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Re: Furrari build
« Reply #749 on: May 23, 2018, 05:43:29 PM »
As usual I couldn’t find the rubber extrusion I wanted, about 8mm x 2mm with a shallow wedge shape.  What I did find was a T section about 14mm wide with stem of the T part about 1.5mm wide.  I’ve cut off the one side of the Top using the stem of the T as a guide and then the stem of the using the bit of the top of the T that I wanted to keep.

I’ve glued it into position with super glue, pushing it back against the part I wanted to seal to and covering the gap.

The net result is that the panel I made just blends in as though it was always there, so no pictures.

Yes I did get covered in superglue and at one point had my glove stuck to the rubber moulding so I had to cut a new bit.

Now for the other side, got an idea how to hold it in place but I’ve posted enough of my errors already.
Not all problems can be solved with gaffer tape.  For those there is WD40.
Not even gaffer tape can fix stupid, but it can mask the sound.

If you can’t buy it or steal it you have to make it.

 

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