Author Topic: Phils 4thirty build  (Read 223570 times)

Phils99

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Re: Phils 4thirty build
« Reply #510 on: June 15, 2014, 10:21:04 AM »
cheers guys....

Paul, my interior colour will be cream, same as Madmans
What colour should a Ferrari be?...ROSSO of course!

Phils99

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Re: Phils 4thirty build
« Reply #511 on: July 12, 2014, 10:19:17 PM »
got half a day on her today, so I carried out lots of little jobs, firstly I looked at the mirrors and cut the hole in the door part for the mirror adjuster cable, no pics  of this, but then I decided to trim the rubber seal on the door near the mirror...

Pic 1, this is the piece that needs trimming

Pic 2, After the rubber is trimmed, it has this metal part inside it...

Pic 3, I used the grinder to remove the metal part, it now fits nicely

Pic 4, I then did a little sanding of the front door gaps as, after securing the wings to the light carriers, they were just catching very slightly.....

Pic 5, next it ws onto the bonnet stops, I first marked the centre of the flat "square" part

Pic 6, I then checked the size of the supplied bonnet stops and marked it on my stepped drill bit with insulation tape

Pic 7, I then drilled the hole, stopping before the insulation test and trial fitting the stop, and just doing it little by little until it nearly fit, I then used a tiny round file to create the "notch" that stops the lower part of the stop spinning when adjusting it

Pic 8, Lower part of stop fitted...

continued....


What colour should a Ferrari be?...ROSSO of course!

Phils99

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Re: Phils 4thirty build
« Reply #512 on: July 12, 2014, 10:26:43 PM »
...continued

Pic 1, upper part of stop fitted

Pic 2, I then looked at the front scuttle and cut this piece out of some spare I had cut off the wheel liners to match the shape of the scuttle part

Pic 3, I then bonded this with P40 on the rear

Pic 4, when dried, it now looks like this from the front

Pic 5, test fit...it fills the gap nicely, just needs a little sanding, some P38 filler and then painting with the textured paint,. I will save that job for when the car is at body shop.

Thats it for now, plan a full day on her tomorrow so hopefully many more little jobs will get done.

What colour should a Ferrari be?...ROSSO of course!

Phils99

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Re: Phils 4thirty build
« Reply #513 on: July 13, 2014, 05:02:54 PM »
yet another day on the car!!

again, managed to work on lots of little things such as drilling drain holes in the rear bumper to stop water collecting...

Lots of other bits and bobs done and some took a good few hours, like messing with the frunk surround to get the water bottle filler to fit, this is a mark up/take off/cut/refit type of job so can take a while to get it to fit nicely, but its worth it.

Pic 1, For the washer bottle to fit better, remove this now useless bracket

Pic 2, I then cut the neck as the washer bottle needs to be in a different position, I will buy some flexi pipe and jubilee clips to fasten them back together later

Pic 3, I decided I really needed the front bumper off to fit the washer bottle, but couldnt be bothered to take it off today, so I will fit the washer bottle another day. instead I marked the frunk cover where I need to remove some of the plastic so that the filler cap will fit.

Pic 4, I then removed this piece, refitted, marked again, removed, cut the piece out, refitted etc about 3 times until it fit nicely (thought I had a pic of it finished.....but I havent!)

Pic 5, as my car originally didnt have the alarm system fitted, I also had to cut out the slot in the frunk cover for the plunger. This again was trial and error, and also made it imposible to get the cover on with the plunger fitted, so I moved the bolt and drilled another hole in the plunger bracket to get it to nearly the right height for the bonnet. I fitted it and then connected 2 wires to it to test if the bonnet pressed it down, closed the bonnet and it worked a treat, you just have to remove the plunger and bracket if you are removing the frunk cover...which wont be often!

Pic 6, after the doors are fitted, you end up with a gap here, so I mixed up some P40 and filled in the gap, the body shop will do the final filling of this during prep...

Pic 7, here is the gap filled, I did this on both sides...

Pic 8, last job of the day I fitted the wiper based washers and trial fitted the washer pipes, hooked up the washer bottle and gave it a quick test, all working nicely!


What colour should a Ferrari be?...ROSSO of course!

Paul79

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Re: Phils 4thirty build
« Reply #514 on: July 13, 2014, 08:27:32 PM »
well done matey. getting closer and closer.. that must have ticked a few jobs off the to do list....  ;D

Phils99

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Re: Phils 4thirty build
« Reply #515 on: July 21, 2014, 08:17:17 PM »
Had a day in garage on sunday, but the garage was a mess so spent an hour or so tidying up!

So next, I decided to do the wiring for the headlight and main beam.....

Now mine is a prefacelift and I have 3 wires, doesnt matter about the colours lets call them 1, 2 and 3.

When I turn headlights on, I get a battery on 1 and an earth on 2 and nothing on 3...so thats obvious then, connect the headlight to 1 and 2, done...

Now when I flick the main beam on, the earth on 2 goes OFF and I get an earth on 3, so connect the main beam gate to 1 and 3, done

Ok, so now I have a problem....on low beam, headlight on, gate closed, on high beam headlight off, gate open!
it worked originally on the mr2 with a dual filament bulb and it either lit one side or the other for low/high beam...

How can I get this to work with 1 bulb and a gate?

 If I connect the earths together, then the bulb is constantly on, and the main beam gate is constantly open!

Help!!
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tenpin

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Re: Phils 4thirty build
« Reply #516 on: July 21, 2014, 10:14:02 PM »
My quick thoughts - you'll need a changeover relay.
Connect the gate between 1 and 3.
Connect the relay coil between 1 and 3
Connect the bulb to 1 and the other end of the bulb to the changeover relay contact (common)
Connect the relay normally open (NO) to 3
Connect the relay normally closed (NC) to 2

Have a think about that and hopefully it will make sense, also hopefully I've got it right.... been up far too many hours to think straight.....

 - tenpin

Phils99

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Re: Phils 4thirty build
« Reply #517 on: July 21, 2014, 10:18:53 PM »
Cheers tenpin, but is that what everyone had to do with a prefacelift?

I havent seen any write ups mention relays for the headlights.....

Anyone actually wired up prefacelift headlights?
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Paul79

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Re: Phils 4thirty build
« Reply #518 on: July 21, 2014, 10:52:39 PM »
Hi Phil, sorry you're having issues with your lights. Beany's car was a pre face lift. Post face lift was simple. A connector plug with 2 wires for headlight and a connector plug with 2 wires for the main beam. On the pre FL was there a shared connector?

CdRsKuLL

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Re: Phils 4thirty build
« Reply #519 on: July 21, 2014, 11:48:48 PM »
Hi fella, I had something similar on my Mk2 MR2.  All the lights are earth switched, which means they always have a positive feed (single wire) and two switched earths for the main and dipped bulb.  I got round it by inserting a diode I think (was a couple of years ago.. lol )


I've attached a quick diagram showing you what I mean. This will turn both bulbs ON when the main beam is selected but only the dip beam when that's selected. Is that what you're after?

NOTE - please remember if powering two bulbs that the current will increase and the wires might not carry that type of juice.. nor the fuse, if you're using xenon kits then this uses a separate power unit and only uses the feed to operate the magic box which is what I used.

thanks

Steve
« Last Edit: July 21, 2014, 11:57:05 PM by CdRsKuLL »
The fat one..

Phils99

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Re: Phils 4thirty build
« Reply #520 on: July 22, 2014, 08:34:04 AM »
cheers Steve, that is similar to my issue, but in the Hella headlights we only have 1 bulb, we need to keep this on when we engage main beam which isnt a bulb, but a metal "gate" that drops allowing more light from the bulb.

Your diagram will work if I connect the main beam gate where you have the main beam bulb, its another solution I can try
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DNA AUTOMOTIVE

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Re: Phils 4thirty build
« Reply #521 on: July 22, 2014, 10:18:16 AM »
Hi,
According to boys at DNA, which is where I am at the moment:

Driver Side:
Red/Blue - take to both lamp and Gate
Red/Yellow - take to gate
Red/Green - take to lamp

Passenger side:
Red - take to both lamp and gate
Red/Green - take to lamp
Red/Yellow - take to gate

Hope this helps,
 - tenpin

Phils99

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Re: Phils 4thirty build
« Reply #522 on: July 22, 2014, 10:54:44 AM »
Tenpin,

unfortunately, im away at the moment in London so I cant check, but I dont see how this would work, as, cdrskull confirmed, these use a switched earth system as they are lighting up one side of the original MR2 bulb or the other with the common being the battery, if I do as you said in previous post, I can turn on the bulb OR open the gate, but not both at the same time (for high beam)!

Im pretty sure the only way will be with a relay or a diode.

What colour should a Ferrari be?...ROSSO of course!

Phils99

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Re: Phils 4thirty build
« Reply #523 on: July 22, 2014, 02:02:59 PM »
ok guys, after much research and many emails from people (thanks guys) this will be the way to do it as seen in this thread from MR2ROC to convert from prefacelift (1 bulb with 2 filaments) to facelift (2 bulbs, 1 dip, 1 main - which will be similar to Hella 1 bulb, 1 gate).

http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=30838&hilit=+facelift+headlights

NB. REPLACE THE "MAIN" BULB IN THE DIAGRAM WITH THE "GATE" FOR THE HELLA HEADLIGHT

It is done with a relay so that the earth that switches from one wire to the other when main beam applied gets switched via the relay to keep the bulb on AND operate the gate.

I will try this at the weekend to confirm but I am sure this will work.

I am totally suprised that this hasnt been a problem for other builders? if it does work, I will create a "how to" for it.
What colour should a Ferrari be?...ROSSO of course!

Phils99

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Re: Phils 4thirty build
« Reply #524 on: July 22, 2014, 02:19:37 PM »
updated diagram...

« Last Edit: July 22, 2014, 02:21:17 PM by Phils99 »
What colour should a Ferrari be?...ROSSO of course!